No Clutch!!!

**JDNSW** · 5th September 2009, 05:47 AM

Originally Posted by jerryd

I recently had mine replaced, it cost $95.00 for the part and as it looked fiddly to fit I booked it in to a garage to be done.

The chap said ......" Easy job mate, one hours labour $85.00 " So I let them carry on

Two hours later and there was all sorts of swearing coming from under the County. The guy was really struggling to get the new one connected, after three hours and three people to bleed the clutch, the one hour job was complete

When I went round to pay, I was quite surprised that the invoice was as per quote .........$85.00

They obviously have not done one before - should not take a professional that long, although it could take over an hour. The problem is that you have to disconnect the bracket that holds the short pipe between the slave cylinder and the flexible pipe - which means disconnecting one of the starter bolts - which are not easy to get at. The only time I have had trouble bleeding mine was when it was immobilised due to the clutch on a downhill slope - eventually reverse bled it.

John

**87County** · 5th September 2009, 06:39 AM

Don't forget to post the part nos on the sticky in thi forum if you buy new master & slave cylinders.

**rar110** · 5th September 2009, 07:52 AM

possible part numbers

Slave UKC8677L
Master TMC2040

**Dougal** · 5th September 2009, 09:09 AM

Internal slave cylinder?

My Isuzu is external.

**Bush65** · 5th September 2009, 10:38 AM

Originally Posted by Dougal

Internal slave cylinder?

My Isuzu is external.

The Land Rover slave cylinder is external, the pushrod and clutch fork are completely inside the bellhousing. If the slave cylinder leaks the fluid will run inside the bellhousing.

With our truck set-ups, the end of the clutch fork protrudes through the side of the bellhousing.

The advantage for Land Rover is that water and mud can be kept away from the clutch more reliably than the large rubber boot that Isuzu use.

**jerryd** · 9th September 2009, 06:55 PM

I've just returned from a 350 kilometre trip and a couple of kilometres from home the clutch pedal started feeling a bit spongy

I've checked the resevoir for fluid and it's empty

Would this be the master cylinder gone ?? It can't be the slave cylinder this time

Is it a big job to change ?? Any thoughts please ??

**JDNSW** · 9th September 2009, 08:48 PM

Just because it is a new one does not mean the slave cylinder is not the problem. If the reservoir is empty, the first thing is to find out where the fluid went - this should tell you where the problem is. If it is the master cylinder, it is probably on the floor.

To answer your question - unless there is a pipe union you can't undo, or rusted up bolts, it is not very difficult to change a master cylinder. The secret though is to remove the whole pedal assembly - disconnect the pipe, remove six bolts from inside, and lift it out, turning 90 degrees to allow the pedal pad through. Then remove and replace the cylinder and put it back. It looks like it would be easier to remove the M/C in situ, but the bottom bolt is almost impossible to get at.

John

**jerryd** · 9th September 2009, 08:56 PM

I've replenished the fluid and the pedal is back to normal, after pumping it for a few minutes.
I couldn't see any obvious fluid leaks around the slave cylinder or the master, I'll check it out more thoroughly in daylight. Am I right in thinking that fluid would travel down the clutch pedal and drip onto floor, or would it be on the firewall side ??

**JDNSW** · 9th September 2009, 09:41 PM

Originally Posted by jerryd

I've replenished the fluid and the pedal is back to normal, after pumping it for a few minutes.
I couldn't see any obvious fluid leaks around the slave cylinder or the master, I'll check it out more thoroughly in daylight. Am I right in thinking that fluid would travel down the clutch pedal and drip onto floor, or would it be on the firewall side ??

Leakage from the master cylinder typically runs down the clutch pedal, but not necessarily. It may come down the front wall of the hole the pedal goes up into. The reservoir is not very big, and spread out the fluid from it may not look to be a lot.

As an aside, when you find it has been leaking onto paintwork, wash it off as soon as possible, removing the last traces with metho, as it is a good paint stripper. When you remove the pedal assembly to replace the master cylinder, be prepared to clean up any more you find, and to repaint any areas of damaged paint, to avoid future rust.

John

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