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Thread: Rangie LT95 -> isuzu county

  1. #1
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    Rangie LT95 -> isuzu county

    I have a rumbly LT95 behind my isuzu and want to find a suitable replacement at te right price.
    There are a few old rangies about that could provide a donor box for a rebuild, but I don't know exactly what would be required to make it fit.

    I hope it is simply a matter of bolting on a bell housing and the bigger transmission brake, but I doubt I'd be so lucky.

    will I need a different input shaft, overdrive high range transfer gears any thing else??

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    Quote Originally Posted by procrastination inc View Post
    I have a rumbly LT95 behind my isuzu and want to find a suitable replacement at te right price.
    There are a few old rangies about that could provide a donor box for a rebuild, but I don't know exactly what would be required to make it fit.

    I hope it is simply a matter of bolting on a bell housing and the bigger transmission brake, but I doubt I'd be so lucky.

    will I need a different input shaft, overdrive high range transfer gears any thing else??
    Thats just about it really. Bellhousing, hand brake and change the transfer gears (preferably to a TRS assembly) and away you go. Dont forget to swap the speedo gear from your old box otherwise your speedo may over/under read...........Brian

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    so is the rangy input shaft identical to the county one?

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    Quote Originally Posted by procrastination inc View Post
    so is the rangy input shaft identical to the county one?
    yep, same shaft............Brian

  5. #5
    10 inches more Guest
    I know you are talking about different gearboxes here, but I did the box swap from a '76 Rangie into my '84 120, both 4 speed, and am still dealing with a few unexpected issues. I didn't do the job myself, I didn't have the time or gear.
    I did take the box out of the Rangie (dropped it on the floor then lifted the Rangie off it with the tractor) took it to a local Landy mechanic, he fited it and all was good, but the box wasn't a good as I'd thought. Got the original 120 box rebuilt (problem was that the nylon spacer under the gear stick retainer broke up, the rubber boot came adrift and the box slowly filled with dirt...) by a different mechanic who also installed it back into the 120.
    We inadvertently found that the Rangie's rear output shaft yoke is 5mm shorter than the other, so doing up the nut on the shaft pulled the brake drum back onto the brake backing plate. Made up spacer washers for between the drum and yoke until finally twigging to the difference in length.
    Still had oil pouring out the rear after we got to this point and then back to Landy mechanic no.1, put in a better fitting seal and a bearing with an oil seal also, which reduced the leak to an acceptable Landy '1 drop/week'.
    Ongoing worry is that the output shaft still has about 1mm lateral play and there is nothing to tighten to reduce this, the output shaft simply sits in the diff one end, and a ball bearing the other. I'm wondering / hoping that I've got the wrong output shaft in and that if I swap them I'll get a tighter fit in the diff end. The shaft not in the 110 now does have a machined pattern on the outer surface of the spline as though designed to cause an 'interferece-fit' inside the diff.
    So, all I can add to your conversation is do the lot yourself and keep track of the parts! This has cost me a motza for a very second rate outcome.

    Any advice would, obviously, be welcome.....

    Dan

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    Quote Originally Posted by 10 inches more View Post
    I know you are talking about different gearboxes here, but I did the box swap from a '76 Rangie into my '84 120, both 4 speed, and am still dealing with a few unexpected issues. I didn't do the job myself, I didn't have the time or gear.
    I did take the box out of the Rangie (dropped it on the floor then lifted the Rangie off it with the tractor) took it to a local Landy mechanic, he fited it and all was good, but the box wasn't a good as I'd thought. Got the original 120 box rebuilt (problem was that the nylon spacer under the gear stick retainer broke up, the rubber boot came adrift and the box slowly filled with dirt...) by a different mechanic who also installed it back into the 120.
    We inadvertently found that the Rangie's rear output shaft yoke is 5mm shorter than the other, so doing up the nut on the shaft pulled the brake drum back onto the brake backing plate. Made up spacer washers for between the drum and yoke until finally twigging to the difference in length.
    Still had oil pouring out the rear after we got to this point and then back to Landy mechanic no.1, put in a better fitting seal and a bearing with an oil seal also, which reduced the leak to an acceptable Landy '1 drop/week'.
    Ongoing worry is that the output shaft still has about 1mm lateral play and there is nothing to tighten to reduce this, the output shaft simply sits in the diff one end, and a ball bearing the other. I'm wondering / hoping that I've got the wrong output shaft in and that if I swap them I'll get a tighter fit in the diff end. The shaft not in the 110 now does have a machined pattern on the outer surface of the spline as though designed to cause an 'interferece-fit' inside the diff.
    So, all I can add to your conversation is do the lot yourself and keep track of the parts! This has cost me a motza for a very second rate outcome.

    Any advice would, obviously, be welcome.....

    Dan
    Hi Dan,
    There are some differences in the output housing and shaft in the rangie boxes (namely shorter) but if you use the brake setup that was on the box you shouldnt have any problems, otherwise you can change the rear output housing and shaft if you want to use your original county brake assembly. I have the part numbers if you want them. There should be no lateral movement in the rear shaft once everything is tightened up. The rear shaft does fit pretty snug into the centre diff gear if the shaft splines are in good condition. Obviously if there is wear on the splines this will result in some movement where the splines contact the gear splines. Also there is a distance sleeve and speedo worm drive that fits onto this shaft, maybe they have been mixed up during installation causing the play you mentioned. There should be no lateral movement once the drive flange nut is tightened........Regards......Brian

  7. #7
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    Personly i would stay with the lt95, nice and strong, last for ages and you got to love the truck like feel of it IMO
    We rebuilt ours and it changes very well now, and is great to use!!.

    CHEERS TIM.

  8. #8
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    Lt95

    Keep the lt95 they are strong and simple to work on.
    And the other thing as that you don't really gain much.
    The output on the five speed and four speed in top gear would be similar, my mate has hte five speed it doesn't as well the gears are smaller and you have to change gears more.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by long stroke View Post
    Personly i would stay with the lt95, nice and strong, last for ages and you got to love the truck like feel of it IMO
    We rebuilt ours and it changes very well now, and is great to use!!.

    CHEERS TIM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gavo View Post
    Keep the lt95 they are strong and simple to work on.
    And the other thing as that you don't really gain much.
    The output on the five speed and four speed in top gear would be similar, my mate has hte five speed it doesn't as well the gears are smaller and you have to change gears more.
    This thread is only about differences between the LT95 from a County and one from a rangie.

    The thread will be useful to others if it doesn't go off topic like you two have tried to do with unhelpful posts that add nothing to the subject

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10 inches more View Post
    I know you are talking about different gearboxes here, but I did the box swap from a '76 Rangie into my '84 120, both 4 speed, and am still dealing with a few unexpected issues. I didn't do the job myself, I didn't have the time or gear.
    I did take the box out of the Rangie (dropped it on the floor then lifted the Rangie off it with the tractor) took it to a local Landy mechanic, he fited it and all was good, but the box wasn't a good as I'd thought. Got the original 120 box rebuilt (problem was that the nylon spacer under the gear stick retainer broke up, the rubber boot came adrift and the box slowly filled with dirt...) by a different mechanic who also installed it back into the 120.
    We inadvertently found that the Rangie's rear output shaft yoke is 5mm shorter than the other, so doing up the nut on the shaft pulled the brake drum back onto the brake backing plate. Made up spacer washers for between the drum and yoke until finally twigging to the difference in length.
    Still had oil pouring out the rear after we got to this point and then back to Landy mechanic no.1, put in a better fitting seal and a bearing with an oil seal also, which reduced the leak to an acceptable Landy '1 drop/week'.
    Ongoing worry is that the output shaft still has about 1mm lateral play and there is nothing to tighten to reduce this, the output shaft simply sits in the diff one end, and a ball bearing the other. I'm wondering / hoping that I've got the wrong output shaft in and that if I swap them I'll get a tighter fit in the diff end. The shaft not in the 110 now does have a machined pattern on the outer surface of the spline as though designed to cause an 'interferece-fit' inside the diff.
    So, all I can add to your conversation is do the lot yourself and keep track of the parts! This has cost me a motza for a very second rate outcome.

    Any advice would, obviously, be welcome.....

    Dan
    Not a good idea to do the spacers.You will change its integrity. The brake drum needs to sit flush on the housing. Unfortunately the price for a new flange is over $200, however, in procrastinations case he can simply use the one from the County. I'm pretty sure the shaft is the same between a Rangie & County

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