Thread: Can my Landie do this? What do I need?

here is my ramp queen I could have driven to the top without too much trouble,but was asked in the interests of safety to remain where I was,as I had already won

And it can still do this sort of thing and more,off road
But I do admit that my Tdi doesn't go fast enough to worry about high speed handling
So do things properly and you can have your Jeep and eat it too

Wayne, OT but whats the snorkle head in the pic on the ramp ??

thanks ..Don

I agree balance between front and back is the goal, but hard (next to impossible) to achieve with radius arms and stock suspension mounts.

have a look at these guys - they appear to be well thought out

www.x-eng.co.uk

cheers Blyhte

Originally Posted by blitz

have a look at these guys - they appear to be well thought out

www.x-eng.co.uk

cheers Blyhte

Simon does think these things out well.

Unfortunately making the rear articulate better doesn't address the articulation balance between front and rear - the rear articulation comes at the expense of front articulation (i.e. the chassis and body stay/roll with the front axle).

Originally Posted by LowRanger

The question is,do you want a ramp queen,or do you want a suspension setup that really works?
With a Land Rover it is all about getting a balanced setup between the front and rear suspension.Which is why you very rarely see Land Rovers winning ramp contests,and why you always hear people commenting as to how well Land Rovers work offroad.

I don't want a ramp queen. I want to be able to follow you into, and out of the woods. The truck is already without swaybars, has OME 751 Front & 755 rear springs, nitrocharger shocks, and 235/85/16. I don't want too much lift. I don't want to look badass cruising around Sydney.

So, the Superior arms look cool. Great, will keep an eye out for what happens and who uses them when they come out. I am unlikely to be an early adopter.

Jeep was well balanced... I could roll through medium difficultly rock gardens and the vehicle was level. I won't be going as nuts with the landy. Since I don't know them well, I don't know which manufacturers are crap, which modifications are a waste, etc. Would like to know where the right balance is, and I would like to do it right, the first time around.

Originally Posted by Bush65

I agree balance between front and back is the goal, but hard (next to impossible) to achieve with radius arms and stock suspension mounts.

As John said, it's hard to balance the front and rear roll rates as the radius arms increase roll stiffness as they articulate (through bush distortion)

A fix for a while was some bushes made by a company in Queensland that allowed the bushes to displace the distorted rubber more easily, but AFAIA Haultech no longer make them and I doubt if they still have stock.

I used them and they worked well, but they also wore out more quickly than stock ones too, just the nature of the design.

A number of us use longer front dampers, usually TLC 80 Series Koni's or OME's and raise the towers to get more droop without limiting bump travel but a little over 10"-11" of stroke seems about the maximum amount of travel you'll get out of a relatively standard front end.

Originally Posted by goingbush

Wayne, OT but whats the snorkle head in the pic on the ramp ??

thanks ..Don

Don

The Raised Air Intake head in that picture is a Sy-Klone,it is the current head that I run on the old truck.And I must say that I am very impressed.I used to go through an air filter every 2-3 trips into the dust hills around here,and I found this to be quite expensive after a while.I was doing a bit of investigating about finding an alternative to the "ramhead" which just let in dust and leaves and sticks and half trees Then I read a report by "Nugget" on here,and his thought on the Sy-Klone that he fitted to his Puma.So I did a lot more investigating and spoke to them direct.After working out which head I required by the airflow required,I ordered it and it arrived in 2 days from QLD and I haven't had to replace a filter again,since I fitted a genuine filter at the same time as the head.At over $30 each,it doesn't take long to recoup the cost of the head.I have been more than impressed.It may not look fancy like a nice big "RamHead" but like the rest of the truck,I will take function over looks ,any time.