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Thread: Looking for recommendations for rear mounted work light

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    Regardless of the ampage of the light it is a Much better option to use the vehicles reversing light cicuit to only trigger a relay and have a seperate (fused) power source for the new light.

    The same as for any other additional lights fitted to the vehicle
    Well a reverse light isn't supposed to be fitted above 1200mm on a vehicle so i assumed that its NOT wired into the reverse light circuit. And if that's a work light, then its not to be wired into the reverse light circuit, and from memory (engineers requirements for my old rangie, and mr plods in a mates disco one day) the work light switch can't be accessible from the drivers seating position. So why would you put it on a relay?

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Well a reverse light isn't supposed to be fitted above 1200mm on a vehicle so i assumed that its NOT wired into the reverse light circuit. And if that's a work light, then its not to be wired into the reverse light circuit, and from memory (engineers requirements for my old rangie, and mr plods in a mates disco one day) the work light switch can't be accessible from the drivers seating position. So why would you put it on a relay?
    With ANY extra lighting fitted it is a Much better proposition to have them powered directly from the battery (fused) with the on/off switch wired up through a relay so that there is minimal ampage running through those flimsy switch wires and the switch itself .

    Most of us that have these sorts of reversing lights only use them when offroad hence the reason for fitting a switch inside the cab and most of us incorperate a relay in the circuit so as not to overload the cars original wireing running extra lighting that the cars original wireing isn't designed to do.

    As I always run heavey cables to the rear of my 4WD's to an anderson plug (fused at both ends) it is a simple task to tap into this power source for any other use
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    With ANY extra lighting fitted it is a Much better proposition to have them powered directly from the battery (fused) with the on/off switch wired up through a relay so that there is minimal ampage running through those flimsy switch wires and the switch itself .

    Most of us that have these sorts of reversing lights only use them when offroad hence the reason for fitting a switch inside the cab and most of us incorperate a relay in the circuit so as not to overload the cars original wireing running extra lighting that the cars original wireing isn't designed to do.
    As i said, if its a work light, its not to wired into the reverse lights, and if its a work light, it doesn't need a relay for that size load, just a simple switch, why complicate it with a 2nd switch (relay) if its totally not needed. I do know exactly what a relay is for, and why its used, i deal with them daily as an electrician, but in this case, if wired legally, its not needed

  4. #14
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    Most of the lights on modern vehicle's run through relays so why would you Not do the same for additional lights fitted??
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    Most of the lights on modern vehicle's run through relays so why would you Not do the same for additional lights fitted??
    Why would you complicate it for 800mA?

  6. #16
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    Hi Trout

    think of it differently because of the low current load on the relay the contacts will get dust on them forming a high resistance causing a voltage drop unless you use wipe contacts.

    you will have a similar problem with the switch unless it is dust proof due to low current so why add another potential problem to the circuit

    Maurice

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vern View Post
    Why would you complicate it for 800mA?
    What is So complicated about putting a relay in the circuit and with a relay fitted an upgrade for the lights is a simple proposition.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

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  8. #18
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    I've put this same kind of setup on previous vehicles and I have used a relay at times to allow switching between aux and main batteries (mainly to keep the reverse circuit isolated). Always had switches to disable the reverse light and another to activate the light itself. The reality is, I rarely turned the reverse light feature off and never had any issues with over zealous law enforcement on the matter.

    I do think with modern LED lights anything below a couple of amps draw is probably inconsequential to whatever circuit it may be piggy backing off. The biggest fear would be some kind of failure in the add on stuff popping a fuse somewhere that disables important stuff!

    Anyway, for future reference if anyone is interested, my actual circuit diagram is attached
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddy View Post
    Hi Trout

    think of it differently because of the low current load on the relay the contacts will get dust on them forming a high resistance causing a voltage drop unless you use wipe contacts.

    you will have a similar problem with the switch unless it is dust proof due to low current so why add another potential problem to the circuit

    Maurice
    If you are getting dust or other contaminants in you contacts you haven't fitted it correctly.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
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  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    What is So complicated about putting a relay in the circuit and with a relay fitted an upgrade for the lights is a simple proposition.
    Theres nothing complicated about it, but making the system more complicated than it needs to be then it just becomes another to for it to fail.

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