Thread: USI-160 160/240 AMP ULTRA SMART DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR.

PM sent.
Cheers Matt

Hi Tim,

Is there any preference as to where the isolator needs to be positioned? Close to starter, aux or doesn't matter?

I was also wondering how large the internals were in the switch/led box? I was contemplating mounting the LED and switch into one of the blank switch housings around the D2 dash. Does this sound possible?

cheers
Paul

Originally Posted by OffTrack

Hi Tim,

I was also wondering how large the internals were in the switch/led box? I was contemplating mounting the LED and switch into one of the blank switch housings around the D2 dash. Does this sound possible?

cheers
Paul

I am answering on behalf of Tim because I have just done something similar.

Two wires are for a LED (Red +) (White -) and Blue and Black to the switch.

I actually used a LED and Rocker switch that was mounted on my Defender cubby box.

Worked a treat.

I'm going to attempt to mount the switch assy into the blank where the headlight levelling switch would go ... LHS of the side mirrors control.

Hi Folks and thanks Minni, I’m that flat-out I haven’t had time to post up more info on the USI-160 isolator yet.

VERY SLACK I KNOW.

Just a bit more info for installing alternate in-cab set ups.

Red is positive side ( ANODE ) of any coloured LED, this is the long lead.

White goes to the negative side ( CATHODE ) of the LED, the short lead and there is also a flat section in the base of round LEDs that corresponds with the negative side.

NOTE, no resistor is needed as both the Neg and Pos supply for the LED has resistors on the PCB. ( DOUBLE PROTECTION )

Blue is the switch input to the Microprocessor and only responds to a negative input but will NOT be damaged if you accidentally touch a positive source.

The Black is a negative source.

You do not need to fit the LED and/or switch for the USI-160 to work and if the In-Cab module is not used, the USI-160 will automatically run in Share Mode ( like an SC80 ).

If you set up a different switch, in the open position, the USI-160 will run in the Share Mode and in the closed position, the USI-160 will run in Ignition Mode like a Redarc or similar type of isolator.

If the motor is off and you want to jump start, the switch must by in the open ( OFF ) position and switched to the closed ( ON ) position, to activate the Jump Start Mode.

If the switch is already in the ON position, simply switch to OFF and then ON again, to activate the Jump Start Mode.

with the motor running, if you want to activate the Winch Mode, the switch must be in the ON position, if it’s in the Share ( OFF ) position, switch it to the ON then back to OFF and then back to ON.

Once in the Winch Mode, the LED ( if you have it fitted ) will give two short flashes an the glow constantly for two seconds and give two short flashes, and continually repeats this cycling while you have the USI-160 isolator set to the Winch Mode.

To turn the winch mode off, either switch to the OFF position the share mode, or switch to OFF and back to ON again, and you are back in Ignition Mode.

If you forget and leave the USI-160 isolator in Winch Mode and turn the motor off. once the voltage drops below 12.75v a 5 minute time starts and if the motor is not started again before the 5 minute timer expires, the USI-160 isolator will automatically go into the OFF Mode. This is done to guaranty you don’t for get and flatten all your batteries.

Tim
What's the latest on the battery box?
I'm assuming that the D3/4 unit will also suit a D2?

Andrew

Hi Andrew and sorry I didn’t reply sooner. I haven’t been watching the threads that closely.

I’m afraid the battery box is on the back burner for now, mainly because there are a few very cheap Chinese ones about and it’s not worth the time to continue the develop something that has some much cheap competition to compete with.

By battery box, are you referring to the USI-160? If not, any idea when a new batch will be ready?