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It'll be awful close. I'm planning on putting it into the side (more curved side, the outer side if looking at the binnacle) which will face down and not be so glaring but still visible.
If possible could you supply one unassembled at the switch/LED end (unless you can work out but you'll need the switch panel)
The switch panel is available at Switch Housing - AWR1159LNF | Discovery Series 2, Range Rover Classic | Land Rover, Range Rover | British Parts UK
Unassembled if that's what you want.
The LEDs wont be run at full voltage so that they're not excessively bright at night.
Graeme,Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Will you be able to provide a unit with a bars unlocked setting with no speed limit.
I want to use the unit in conjunction with swaybar disconnects and need to be certain the ACE hydraulic is not going to activate when unlocked.
Graeme, there's a better way to fit the LED in with the switch in the blank.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/08/1753.jpg
Pull a blank and look at the long section that pushed into the hole, that can be cut off just behind the clips that hold it into the binnacle. The cover pulls off. The switch can fit into this and is just small enough to fit into the long section (might need to mark out its location on the rear to cut out the switch hole right).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/08/1754.jpg
Now where the cover clips on, one side is slightly longer than the other. There'd be room there for the LED to fit, hot glued from behind and a touch of matt black to stop light escaping the rear and the legs could go into the side of the long section to join into the wiring.
The switch is also marked I/O on the front and I'll be painting them out in satin black to match the blanks.
The speed limit can be disabled by fitting a supplied jumper. I didn't have a speed limit on mine but that was for my use only.Quote:
Originally Posted by CJT
ACE unlocks the bars by opening valves that are closed by default. If using disconnects I think it would be safer to remove the ACE fuse although it wouldn't take much of a test to discover if that was needed.
I fitted a miniature toggle switch to one of those blanks, along with 3 LEDs initially then only 1 LED for a later version. However it was quite time-consuming filing out the opening so I wanted to provide a switch that was faster to make. However if you're prepared to make your preferred switch fit then go for it. The rotary switch is needed for my Llams kits because 4 switch positions are used.
Since I have the three empty switch positions at the ash tray spot, I'll use two for the switches and the third for the 2 LED's rather than what I said earlier about putting it into the side.
I'm also fitting one of the Traxide 160 dual battery systems and using the same switch and fitting the LED into the side of that blank. Which will be on the RH lowest switch position of the binnacle.
Being an HSE I don't have any spare switch blankets, except for the one underneath the left side of the instrument cluster. This one is large enough to fit some of the rocker switches. I'll have a look into some options on the weekend.
You'll fit one mini SPDT switch & LED as described by Graeme in post #8 into a single blank.
This is what I ended-up having in my D2. I have toggle switches to spare.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...12/08/1723.jpg