Oops, I think my boys were a bit out with pricing....I should remember as I buy them.....guess that's what the sales rep is for.
As mentioned, a little on the small side. Also, Cigweld aren't what they used to be - they are made in China just like everything else now - not that matters a huge amount if the quality control in ok, but they aren't what they used to be and a bit overpriced IMO. There are better units for the money IMO. With a 15 amp outlet available to you, go for something around the 130 to 140 amp range, you will appreciate the extra grunt if you are welding something heavy at any stage.
For the same price, you can get something like this - https://www.alltools.com.au/shop/ind...ick-Tig_10_Amp
The Powercraft range is Lincolns base model stuff - again, made in China but under good quality control and these units still go through the same testing as the US made stuff. I've just got a Powercraft multi process machine which does a very good job.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Oops, I think my boys were a bit out with pricing....I should remember as I buy them.....guess that's what the sales rep is for.
Smootharc elite is a German made EWM unit. Superior quality, but does come at a cost.
I would do nasty things for the new range of EWM taurus machines...
I've played with a few of the high end machines, (Stick, pulse MIG and TIG) and they really do lay a good weld, even for a bloke like me who is a average welder to begin with.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
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						Bought one of these a few years back - great little unit.
https://weldingstore.tokentools.com....c-205-stl.html
a few more to consider:
https://weldingstore.tokentools.com....c-welders.html.
cheers
Does this also apply to the non-Elite models? BOC Smootharc 170 MMA Welder | BOC Australia
Negative.
But at a price point 75% off the EWM units, it's to be expected.
Still plenty of punch in the MMA 170.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
 Fossicker
					
					
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						Turns out this one - which I have used for handyman stuff - is in special and another 20% off if you opt for a 1 year warranty instead of 5 years.
https://weldingstore.tokentools.com....ne-arc162.html
Had a look at the link you had for the inverter welder. Check the duty cycle. You will only be able to do light welding for any period of time. Duty cycle drops of at 3.2 mm rod size. This is why a good old school copper coil welder is a good choice. You should be able to weld all day with 3.2 mm rods. Avoid welders with aluminum wound coils, won`t last long at all. I picked up a old Peerless copper coil welder. It has four coils and switches between them so has a continuous duty cycle. It also has dual voltage so you can weld either heavy or light gauge metal. But any old copper coil welder would be good. So look at the duty cycle, it is what separates the cheap from the good. Unless you don`t mind standing around waiting for your welder to restart.
Cheers Hall
Agree with above, but on the contrary, don't think that you need a machine with a 100% duty cycle.
Stick welding by nature is not a fast process. There is plenty of arc-off time where you are fitting up the job, chipping slag, changing electrodes, sipping a beer etc...
So while you should avoid a machine with 10% duty cycle at 50% of it's supposed 'max' output (ie 10% @ 65A on a 130A machine), keep in mind anythign around 30% duty cycle at 80% of it's rated output will be more than fine for the home gamer.
I did a torture test on a 170A red machine once. Had the dial cranked to the metaphorical '11', and proceeded to burn 4mm 7016 rods on 10mm steel plate. Could not hit duty cycle. Bent the plate like a banana due to all the heat too.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
 Fossicker
					
					
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						If you haven't purchased a welder yet, check out this MIG package. I bought one and it is a dream to use.
https://sydneytools.com.au/uni-mig-m...ion-mig-welder
on special ATM
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