Thread: Camper Trailer Build

Depending on weight, I actually removed a spring from the 4 leaf ALKO setup on a 45mm axle to do the Cape run last year. I had fitted shocks but it was far too stiff for the corrugations so I used a 3 leaf set up...nothing broke!

solid axle setup is easy to service. I fitted electric brakes on 10" hubs drilled to Holden commodore VZ pcd so that it accepts Disco2/P38 rims.

simple chassis, Navara tub bolted on with ARB canopy supporting a roof top tent. 250L Freightliner fuel tank on draw bar enclosed in large box. Batteries and 90L water tank in tub...

i can get a new camper in brisbane (cleveland) for around $6k base model that includes a new nathan trailer and a huge tent approx 4mtr X 6mtr (13ft X 17ft) extras available
im into DYI but would you save much doing it your self?

as for suspension,,

nothing tows like independent,,
easy to adjust springs to weight,

there have been a few built here from scratch so plenty of pics and advice.

but!
the first big question "from what all others derive"

hard or soft floor?

-All my offroad trailer builds thus far have been boat trailers.
-Depending on whether you are fabricating the suspension from scratch or simply attaching a factory built system to your chassis will help you decide which route to take.

Leafs and solid axle are boring Set up right they can ride okay. If you are buildig from scratch track down a set of rear 78/79 series leafs, pull the stack and mix'n'match the leafs to get a good ride vs load carrying ability. The nice long leafs make for the softest possible leaf ride. Will need dampers.

- I did build an independant swing arm setup, but in the end I was unhappy with the loaded vs unloaded geometry / load sharing from one wheel to the other. So I changed it to a triangulated 4-link - stepped axle. This is now how I would build any further offroad config trailers. Coil springs and dampers for ride, but by linking the wheels you get some side-side load sharing and all round sweet geometry. With the stepped up axle no clearance issues when dragging a non driven set of wheels through muck.

If you have the tools, inclination and time there is much satisfaction in building the lot from scratch... even if you have to rebuild it a few times! The other benefit of building from scratch is the ease with using vehicle stub axle and hubs. 75/80 series fronts for tojo/patrol pattern, Or more likely Landy stubs/hubs for landy... this would require some thinking if your matching wheels to a flash landy with the 120PCD!!!! The benefit of vehicle hubs/bearings and stubs is there load capacity, size and long life and shared vehicle components compared with poxy trailer bearings!

Steve

Originally Posted by roverrescue

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other. So I changed it to a triangulated 4-link - stepped axle.
Steve

Pics?

ummm,
okay - see what I can do - trailer is a mates. I did have good intentions of doing a buildup but when Im in the zone Im not too interested in 'talking' about it as such!

Next build is for a 6.5m glass boat ATM of about 2.5T. Im seriously thinking of using a single 2.5T ALKO rubber bush axle, but then swinging a walking beam off the ALKO spindle to a pair of stub axles, and braked hubs.(which = tandem load shared braked)
Benefits are next to no moving parts in water other than ALKO and solid steel, drawback is the exagerated side loads applied to the ALKO spindle from the walking beam. In honesty for the amount of driving the trailer will do a simple pivoted walking beam would suffice using 14' rims and LT tyres at 20psi ish.

Load sharing tandem spring setups cost a bomb and the way we use boat trailers spring sets only last a couple of years. Hmmm, lucky the owner doesnt want the trailer for a while yet!

S