Thread: Trailer Coupling

I've seen that type of coupling many years ago on a boat trailer for a small plywood dinghy.
I don't think they're designed for much of a load.
I'd be checking that pin and bolt regularly.
I wouldn't grease or lubricate the pin or bolt with a wet lubricant either. The dust it collects would form a grinding paste but I'm sure you knew that already.

It is an Orac hitch.

Thanks for that - did a google on it and it seems to be as good or as bad as most of full 360 degree hitches.

The issue of alignment comes up but my limited experience indicates it works best with a permanent toe tongue attached which was supplied - so rather than pulling the pin on it, it is easier to just pull the receiver hitch out of the tow bar and vice versa.

I still have my original receiver hitch with the tow ball stored under my back seat and the Oric receiver hitch can stay connected to the trailer.

Cheers

Garry

As the others said it's an ORAC coupling. Rated to 3500Kg.

I have only towed once with the hitch and the only issue has been unhitching and pulling the cross pin out.

I havn't set it up as yet to check on the little things due to the weather being bad - weather was good today so I decided to move the camper from the side of the house to the from lawn and set it up. Doing it by myself.

After a lot of mucking around manages to get the car into position - the problem was getting the cross pin in as it is impossible to get the alignment exactly spot on but a sledge hammer helps ram the pin in.

Undoing the hitch is the real issue - unless aligned perfectly to the nearest half a mm the pin on the Orac hitch and even the pin on the tow bar just jam locking the pins. Raising and lowering the jocky wheel or raising or lowering the car did not help - bashing the pin with a hammer only moved it a bit and when you use a drift to push the pin out the driver get caught.

Is there a special trick to this??

What about about bolting and welding (as a back up only) a standard 3.5T trailer coupling to the front section of the Orac and then using a standard 3.5T tow ball - this will make things easier to hitch up and still retain full offroad movement.

Before the suggestions come in - I am aware of better hitches and will look at them later but for the moment what I have is what I will use.

Garry

You could replace the existing part with a ball coupler, there are some that have a square solid steel section that is undrilled. You could cross drill it to suit the cross pin and use a ball as standard. Would retain rotary and ramp over movement with attachment simplicity of a ball. The one pictured below 614000.

Hi Garry, Had Orac coupling on our old camper & never had a problem hooking up or unhooking. I am so happy with this type of coupling I am going to replace the coupling on new trailer with a similar set up. (better articulation)

Hey garrycol, I just bought a camper trailer that has a new orca and I have no problems with it, infact a mate also bought a new camper with the tregg coupling and we both agree backing up and placing the camper on the D2 is easier with the orca. I find a good jockey wheel helps.