Just saying but to me the flang on the end of the axle looks a bit on the light side .Hope I'm wrong
Gary
Just saying but to me the flang on the end of the axle looks a bit on the light side .Hope I'm wrong
Gary
You can buy Land Rover pattern hubs that fit onto a standard trailer axle.
AL-KO Website » Trailer Hubs (standard and galv. finish)
Is there an advantage with using the LR stubs apart from bigger bearings ?
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
In your case Weeds you could consider a set of discs and calipers from an LR product that would fit your stubs. Then you would need an electric over hydraulic actuator.
This sort of thing HydraStar HBA Series Brake Actuator
You can get it a lot cheaper if bought in the states, when looking a few weeks ago I found a site that sold to Australia.
If you are going to pay for someone else to do it then it might be just as easy to start again with an axle already setup for electric brakes which any trailer manufacturer will be able to supply you with.
Kelvin,
if you have been towing it around without brakes before you knew it was over 750
just get a pair of calipers from any vehicle you choose but landy you might have sitting in the shed?
Weld on some caliper brackets tot he axle.
Run some bundy tube to a hydraulic over ride
Done - totally legal and you still have the best possible trailer axle setup.
Your trailer is low COG well balanced and very unlikely to sway such that you "NEED" to control braking from the cab. Override hydraulics will be fine.
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
You may not need brakes to stay legal but from my experience electric brakes can be a lifsaver when you are on dirt roads. Especially hilly/twisty ones.
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