We have "jack-off legs" on our 130 camper.
and "ranga" has too, on his 130.
We haven't had problems, except in exceptionally wet ground, the legs "walk", we have however found a solution to this
Mrs hh![]()
Very soon I'll have my recently purchased aluminium canopy sitting on the back of my 130 Defender. For most of the time, it will live on the truck but occasionally I'll need to remove it. (When I need the tray at home and for leaving the campsite when out bush)
I know I can purchase a set of wind up legs ($880) that will do the job but I feel I should be able to get something made to do the job just as well for and save some $$.
My plan is to weld a jack receiver to the side of the canopy and use a hi-lift jack to raise the canopy a few inches and place it on the legs.
The canopy has four 50mm sq steel tubes built into the chassis (see pic) which I would use to locate the legs.
I'd like to construct a T-piece consisting of 40mm sq tube welded to a 50mm section. This would allow a 40mm sq leg to run inside and would be adjustable using a locking pin.
I made a very rough Drawing which I gave to a steel fabricator today - he quoted approx $100 for each leg which sounds fair.
My concern now is that using steel for this leg system is going to be HEAVY! Should I consider having this fabricated out of aluminium? The weight of the canopy is 230kg unladen - to which we be adding all the regular camping accoutrement - fridge, battery, tent, spare tyres etc... along with all of that, there will be two bods sleeping in the roof top tentSo what ever system I choose, it must be sturdy.
I think this is a simple and practical solution however I'd be keen to hear from others there advice/recommendation![]()
We have "jack-off legs" on our 130 camper.
and "ranga" has too, on his 130.
We haven't had problems, except in exceptionally wet ground, the legs "walk", we have however found a solution to this
Mrs hh![]()
Series Landy Rescue
Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
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'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
Hi,
I'm considering making my legs without adjustment, and carrying several blocks of wood to pack under on uneven ground. Some wedges end to end make good fine adjustment, and the wood has other uses such as levelling the ute wheels most nights.
I think the highlift jack under one side, and then the other should get it sorted ok, the wheels may not even leave the ground.
My existing legs have a good fastening system, the insert is cut through at about 30 degrees, and a long bolt goes in from out side to a nut welded in the centre of the back of the shorter bit. Once inserted, the bolt is tightened, sliding the pieces together and jamming the leg in very solid.
Undo the bolt to release, and a tap with a hammer will free it if it jams.
This enables an easy fit to put the leg in, and a very tight fit to hold it in place.
Drill a hole in each foot plate to take a solid tent peg, and have a chain connection near the top of each leg. A chain, or a cam grip ute strap from the peg in one leg to the top of another leg will give enough triangulation to stop the 'walkies'.
cheers
G'day Click,
When I do mine I'll just be using trailer jockey system with legs welded on, and am having two female fitting for it to link into.
Doing it this way will solve the "walking problem" and extra strength.
Cheap legs, should work out to about $50 a corner (I hope)
Series Landy Rescue
Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
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'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
Series Landy Rescue
Parts, welding, finger folding, Storage, Painting, Fabrication, Restorations,
Our FB Page..
https://www.facebook.com/SeriesLR?ref=bookmarks
'51 80", Discovery 2, Defender 130, 101 FC + 20 other Land Rover vehicles
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