Thread: Electric trailer brakes No4

Ok, goal posts moved. To both of your questions, yes both seem possible, you may need to delve deeper. Check wear on drums, magnets and linings. What brand are they? Not real familiar with the Golf vans. May be the best course of action is to renew all serviceable parts in the braking system so you have a clean slate so to speak. It may also be a wiring issue but on 3 wheels? I recently rewired my brakes. Removed the screw wire connectors that were already corroding and replaced with spade connectors tightly wrapped up in electrical tape.
Regards
Robbo

Yahoo! Sharkies score!!
opps sorry Robbo,,

I think I'll adjust again,,
and while I have it in the air,
I'll check voltages, controller Vs magnet.

if all that is good, its gotta be magnets?

No worries mate, Nick jnr on at our house!!!!. Solid plan. Keep me in the loop ok?
Regards
Robbo

It still sounds like a dose of a crook current path to me.

Make sure your brakes are adjusted correctly by all means, but I do think that you need to check that the wiring has a good earth connection at the brakes on both sides, then the earth wiring continues back to the earth of the car.

Don't forget Kirchoff's Law.
.

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

do 10" drums fit inside a 14" rim??

Yes, that's what my Coromal pop-top had.

Ok.
here my one dum question for the day,,

if the controller is putting out 2.3a (say) does each magnet get that?
or is that amount split over the 4 wheels?

Adjusted the 3 non working wheels,,
and bingo!
I now have TWO working brakes,,
and,
of course,
they are both on the one side

Looks like another adjustment session is in order.
Its a complicated thing jacking up one side of a fully independent twin axle van,,
I have a 20T bottle jack that does fit inbetween the tyres,, but as the weights taken off, the rear tyre swings forward onto the jack,,,

I am still looking for a way to check voltages at the wheel that doesnt involve scrafing off insulation.