Thread: Towing another vehicle on an A frame

Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

The kingpin position has to ahead of the rear axle centreline. Where depends on a number of factors. You need to determine these first before performing a simple calculation. Distance ahead = weight transferred to front axle x wheelbase / total weight.

Correct - and then you need a HC licence to operate your vehicle - by law.

Hence the number of 5th wheelers operating illegally around Australia.

If mounted behind the Axle line it's considered a trailer, in front of the centreline it's considered a combination and requires higher level licence.

If the kingpin is set behind the rear axle centreline it badly affects the steering and I can guarantee that you won't like the ride motion

I'm not sure how we tangented to 5th wheelers. However it is sometimes not possible to mount the fifth wheel in front of the axle. This is particularly true of dual cab 1 tonners. A fifth wheeler is still more stable than many standard coupling trailers, particularly large caravans,

I'll throw a spanner in the works...
What if it's a single cab 130?

Will

In an attempt to haul this back on topic.....

Is anyone actually, or recently been, towing a series SWB behind a recent (ish) 110 on an A frame?

If so how have you set it up / engineered it?
How do you feel it behaves it's self?
Is it in any way a practical solution to transporting said swb series vehicle about?

Cheers for you input,

Ian.

In the old days when with a group of 4wds and one broke down in a way it couldn't be driven under its own steam , it would be A framed.
I remember this working with jeeps, Landrovers and dodges etc.
These older vehicles had stout flat metal bumpers.
A universal A frame was strapped/ roped/chained to the bumper.
A driver remained in the towed vehicle to operate brakes and lights.( and in case of breakaway)
many moons ago it used to legal this way.
I do know the towed vehicle steers and handles well this way.
The only problem was if a short A frame is used and at different heights of bumper to tow hook the towed vehicle could climb over the A frame under hard braking if the driver in the towed vehicle was not doing his job and watching the brake lights of the vehicle doing the towing in front.

The military for years used flat A frame towing and is why a lot of old military vehicles had special eyes in the front and somes rear bumper.
The proper military A frames were designed to fit the eyes on many different vehicles from any thing from a landrover size vehicle to a tank.
The military A frames just locked into the bumper pin holes and had one arm of it set up so it could set centre and lock in position when locking on.
In all the times I have seen it done there was never any problem with the steering or following of the towed vehicle.
It is a bit weird to be in a vehicle being flat A frame towed and watching the steering wheel turn by itself around corners.
I do not think any of that would be legal now.
Anyhow if no one is in the towed vehicle normal over 750 kg and 2000 kg trailer brake rules apply.

Originally Posted by mools

In an attempt to haul this back on topic.....

Is anyone actually, or recently been, towing a series SWB behind a recent (ish) 110 on an A frame?

If so how have you set it up / engineered it?
How do you feel it behaves it's self?
Is it in any way a practical solution to transporting said swb series vehicle about?

Cheers for you input,

Ian.

No but I have in a 100" RRc and I found that the long travel coils made the rear of the rangie feel unstable and the tow feel like it was steering the towing vehicle at times. I did feel that it could get out of control real easy, so I would prefer to tow on a car float.

Remember you should be removng the rear prop saft for long tows which just adds an extra level of complexity.