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Thread: what to look for in a used 13-14' poptop

  1. #41
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleChevron View Post
    Why don't you run your anderson plug through an SC80 ...

    SC80 - 90 amps Standard Isolator | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

    Even withoutout a 2nd battery installed it's going to isolate the main battery as soon as it's voltage gets down to the cut-off voltage. I have an SC40 fitted, but am yet to bother actually having the 2nd battery fitted ( we will when free camping obviously ).

    If that link gets deleted because it should be in the market section ( ) just google traxide sc80.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Simple, one is a work car and what I can't scrounge for nothing, don't get fitted. . i also tow the van with about 4 other vehicles, so I'm not going to the trouble of doing anything with these - the fridge stays off when on the move. Add to that I'm a lazy Electrican that understands what sort of current draw things have, and always seem to make it work.

    What may surprise some is that even though I do high level engine and generator control for a living, programming PLC's, Microprocessors, etc that my battery setups with my vehicles and van are all very simple - solar panel permanently connected to the batteries, those batteries connected to the towing vehicle batteries, a $3 voltmeter and that's it.

    Simple in both design and practice - and works great.

    Battery isolaters, DCDC chargers, expensive power management - forget it.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Simple, one is a work car and what I can't scrounge for nothing, don't get fitted. . i also tow the van with about 4 other vehicles, so I'm not going to the trouble of doing anything with these - the fridge stays off when on the move. Add to that I'm a lazy Electrican that understands what sort of current draw things have, and always seem to make it work.

    What may surprise some is that even though I do high level engine and generator control for a living, programming PLC's, Microprocessors, etc that my battery setups with my vehicles and van are all very simple - solar panel permanently connected to the batteries, those batteries connected to the towing vehicle batteries, a $3 voltmeter and that's it.

    Simple in both design and practice - and works great.

    Battery isolaters, DCDC chargers, expensive power management - forget it.
    Oh yes, simple is best ............................ I just know without a doubt I'm going to forget to unplug the anderson when we pull over at a playground .... or petrol station ... or bakery. An isolator is going to be cheaper than a dozen call outs to a roadside rescue service to jump start me every few days or so I don't trust my memory for this sort of stuff at all (a bit like remembering to turn the headlights if used in daylight ...... I'm certainly going to find a flat battery when I get back to the car .............. again ).

    seeya,
    Shane L.
    Proper cars--
    '92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
    '85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
    '63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
    '72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
    Modern Junk:
    '07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
    '11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual

  3. #43
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    I use a fridge switch to stop battery drain when stationary but that is 12 volt. 12 volt only works well when min 6b&s is used from back of the vehicle and where wires to there from battery are big suckers. Then it pulls temp down fast as opposed to just maintaining temp.

    Cheers

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