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Thread: Campertrailer suspension mods

  1. #1
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    Campertrailer suspension mods

    I've been doing some initial research on options for improving the single axle suspension for a fairly lightweight camper / trailer for non serious off road travel - read Great Central Road, and then if I go crazy, a slow trip on the Plenty Highway en route to Cairns - where the plan is to cop out and go by Australian Spirit bus to Cape York, as the intention is the D4 will hopefully remain in good nick as my daily driver until they take my license/licence away.

    As an aside, we have just returned from Vic. by air from visiting our recovering daughter and our two young granddaughters.
    We hired an elderly (100K km) MG3 whilst there. The combination of poorer Vic roads (around the Geelong area and on the M1) plus substandard (probably from new) suspension really makes me appreciate the glide-along D4 and our generally superior roads today on our return.

    So far it would appear that apart from ensuring the van frame, axle, bearings, wheels etc are up to the job, the next addition on balance would appear to be adding airbags, (after converting slipper springs to shackles if slippers were fitted?).

    Shock absorbers are limited by their necessary length and their ability to slot into the small available space at reasonably vertical angles.

    This is supposed to be a KISS project and so I'm not at all interested in non axle options, despite their particular advantages.

    With air suspension on the D4, adjusting van airbag pressures should be fairly simple. Yes, I do also have a stand alone air compressor, but the compressor on my RRC with added rear connecting hose is perfectly adequate for inflating simple airbags, so the D4 version with added hose should be fine for the occasional top-up).

    And as another aside, I read an article some time ago that claimed that an axle and U bolts under springs as opposed to the more normal underslung springs (have I got this the right way around?) is illegal. Seems a crazy statement to me, and the U bolts should have an easier life not carrying the major part of the weight with springs above the axle, but?

    I'd be very interested in any comments from those who have been or researched down this track - no pun intended.

    Cheers Gavin
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #2
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    Spring under axle is standard, however spring over axle is legal and is normally used on high ground clearance trailers. There is absolutely nothing in VSB1 that comments about spring over or spring under. I have manufactured trailers with SOA and none have been faulted at registration.

    Something worth thinking about, is the chassis strength in relation to single point loading as per air springs in comparison to 2 point loading as per leaf springs. This puts more stress into the chassis, so needs a stronger chassis. You will have to be there judge as to whether you have a strong or "enough" chassis.

    Converting from slipper springs to shackles is a great idea for offroad. Slippers, especially when setup as SOA can take enough force for it to rebound and fire the slipper out of its mount - even with the spring poking through by 50mm which is how we set them up. The rebound is only controlled by the main leaf, not the whole leaf pack in many cases for light springs. You can get springs with a bend in the end of the main spring to prevent this, however I think that will hammer the mount and eventually rip the mount out.

    Shocks for offroad are a great idea. I remember Vic Widman saying 20 years ago, it doesn't matter what suspension you have for offroad, it needs to have shocks.

    I would also say, if you're running 4wd tyres, go straight to a 45mm axle and Ford type (ie 1350-1500kg) rated bearings so it doesn't fail.


    What would I do

    I would just run soft shackle springs, they tend to be very stiff from the factory, the above axle/hub setup and run very soft tyre pressures to suit the load - these absorb shock.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    Spring under axle is standard, however spring over axle is legal and is normally used on high ground clearance trailers. There is absolutely nothing in VSB1 that comments about spring over or spring under. I have manufactured trailers with SOA and none have been faulted at registration.

    Something worth thinking about, is the chassis strength in relation to single point loading as per air springs in comparison to 2 point loading as per leaf springs. This puts more stress into the chassis, so needs a stronger chassis. You will have to be there judge as to whether you have a strong or "enough" chassis.

    Converting from slipper springs to shackles is a great idea for offroad. Slippers, especially when setup as SOA can take enough force for it to rebound and fire the slipper out of its mount - even with the spring poking through by 50mm which is how we set them up. The rebound is only controlled by the main leaf, not the whole leaf pack in many cases for light springs. You can get springs with a bend in the end of the main spring to prevent this, however I think that will hammer the mount and eventually rip the mount out.

    Shocks for offroad are a great idea. I remember Vic Widman saying 20 years ago, it doesn't matter what suspension you have for offroad, it needs to have shocks.

    I would also say, if you're running 4wd tyres, go straight to a 45mm axle and Ford type (ie 1350-1500kg) rated bearings so it doesn't fail.


    What would I do

    I would just run soft shackle springs, they tend to be very stiff from the factory, the above axle/hub setup and run very soft tyre pressures to suit the load - these absorb shock.

    Many thanks Slunnie, all excellent advice.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  4. #4
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    I don't think you can beat a good leaf spring set-up for simplicity in a trailer. The springs in our camper trailer are nice and supple and give a good ride over rough terrain. As Slunnie says, most trailer set-ups are way too stiff for the weight they carry.

    I have been pondering building a flat tray style trailer to carry my new slide on camper. As most std trailer springs are very short and stiff, I had been pondering using something like rear landy springs, which are much longer and I can play with the leaf counts to get the ride I want? There is usually plenty of room under a trailer for a long leaf set-up.

    Off topic, but I've read that the rules for trailer engineering have changed in the last few years? It is now no longer able to get a new build engineered without very specific physical load testing of the drawbar? That this testing requirement has effectively killed the ability to home build a one off trailer?

    Chris

  5. #5
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    It not a bad idea to carry a spare trailer spring pack or two, if travelling remote. One of my remote customers used to operate a tilt tray and workshop. He told me that most of his recoveries were for campers/caravans with broken springs. Further, he often had to wait weeks or months in some cases, for replacements, as each make and model use different springs.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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