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Thread: Offroad Trailer Build

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Offroad Trailer Build

    I have finally started the off-road trailer today. After many good...and some not so good recommendations for raising the tent on the trailer I have decided not to do it and leave the tent in a fixed position.

    All up the trailer should (has to) way less than 700kg full loaded.

    It will have
    Disco rims
    Al-ko axles, hubs and off-road electric brakes and leaf suspension with shocks.
    Tregg hitch
    60l water tank
    pull-out kitchen at rear
    Access to front storage area from each side.

    Starting the basic set out of the chassis. I made up a right angle jig to speed things along a bit and hopefully make sure everything stays true. I always find welding tube like this causes it to bend out of shape. I'm sure there are ways to stop this happening....I just don't know them



    Chassis completed and welded ready for the suspension


  2. #2
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    I'd Rather Push My Land Rover in QLD Than Drive A Toyota in NSW
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    Hi Adam,

    Most of the trailers that I've looked at in the last 12 months and especially the ones with a proven offroad ability usually have the A frame arm continue all the way to the front of the spring hangers and run under the chassis or frame of the trailer box.

    I beleive this is to reduce the stress point on the drawbar where the trailer box and drawbar join.

    It looks good though, I wish I could weld and had the tools to do such a job, it would probably save me about $40K next year

  3. #3
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    Yes, I lokked at all that. The chassis that I have done is based on the "Ultimate" camper. The centre bar does run all the way through.

    It is not like you have the full weight of the trailer on the drawbar ana an army trailer would have just the centre bar, the A-frame I have done is more bracing than anything and the load is spread over 3 bars instead of 2.

  4. #4
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    I'd Rather Push My Land Rover in QLD Than Drive A Toyota in NSW
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    Yeah it's probably overkill on most of them or to support all the weight that the load onto the drawbar with kitchens fridges and more storage than inside the trailer in some cases

    How do you intend to keep the weight under 700kg loaded, and why do you need to if your fitting brakes?

  5. #5
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    Well, unless I have calculated very badly the weight should easily fall below 700kg. The main thing is that the trailer will not be used to transport luggage etc

    Trailer (including rack to hold tent) - 350-400kg
    Rooftop tent - 60kg
    Water - 60kg
    Pull out kitchen - 40kg max
    spare tyre -30kg
    other luggage 50kg

    TOTAL - 640kg

    Brakes are going on because I am getting them for nothing (dad's mate is managing director of Al-ko) and I like the idea of brakes when going down steep hills or sandunes in the desert.


    What have missed???

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by walker
    Well, unless I have calculated very badly the weight should easily fall below 700kg. The main thing is that the trailer will not be used to transport luggage etc

    Trailer (including rack to hold tent) - 350-400kg
    Rooftop tent - 60kg
    Water - 60kg
    Pull out kitchen - 40kg max
    spare tyre -30kg
    other luggage 50kg

    TOTAL - 640kg

    Brakes are going on because I am getting them for nothing (dad's mate is managing director of Al-ko) and I like the idea of brakes when going down steep hills or sandunes in the desert.


    What have missed???

    The beer , mind u should say that would go pretty quickly !!

  7. #7
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    Ahhhh. No I did not forget that!

    The fridge will remain in the Disco.

    I managed to download all the data sheets for the steel am using and the trailer is going to be even lighter than I estimated. The trailer itself should be just under 300kg.

  8. #8
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    How are you doing the Suspension???

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sclarke
    How are you doing the Suspension???
    Did you read my initial post!!!

    Or was there something else you wanted to know?

  10. #10
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    Ok, here is another update on the build. I got the axles and springs this week and have attached them. Unfortunately they used 9/16 wheel studs instead of 14mm which the D2 has. On any other vehicle this would be fine, but LR, in all their wisdom makes the D2 wheels different, they dont use a tapered nut, so you HAVE to use their wheel nuts on the alloys. So, I have tracked down some 14mm studs and will replace them next week.






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