So, after many weeks of not doing anything on the Rangie due to a few family issues, I'm back on track now.
Started to put the transfer case back together. There is a photo on here a few posts back showing what it looked like when I removed it... Not pretty. I had previously stripped it down and inspected and measured things up to see what I needed. Turned out I needed a full gasket and seal kit, centre diff spider shims and new input shaft bearings. All up these parts were around the $120 mark if I remember correctly.
I replaced the input shaft bearings today, and for those that know these boxes, know that the end float is set by a shim which sits under one of the bearing shells. Replacing them means the end float needs to be checked and set. Below is a rundown of this and some pics of how I did it.
The first part of the procedure is fitting a slightly thinner shim than what was originally in there - luckily another forum member had a thinner one that he lent me - thanks Macman. Once the shim is fitted, the input shaft is assembled with the gasket and the plate torqued down. A dial indicator is then used to measure the end float.
Here is the setup, showing the dial indicator on zero.
And here is a pic with the shaft lifted showing the end float - 0.60mm
Now, remove the thinner shim, and measure it - 3.23mm (I think it is supposed to be 3.20mm but I'm going off what I measured) NOTE - the dial indicator is set to minus one to start with here, as it is a little stuffed and doesn't go all the way up to 5mm any more, so I had to start a bit below.
Add the end float measured and you get a total of 3.83mm. The spec for the input shaft end float is 0.03 to 0.08mm so I need to install a shim between 3.75 and 3.80mm. Luck would have it that the original shim was 3.78mm - right in the middle of what is needed - you can get lucky sometimes...
So, I installed that shim, reassembled permanently. And measured everything up - theory said I should end up with 0.05mm end float.
Set the dial indicator back up to zero...
And levered the shaft up... Bingo!
You can get lucky sometimes, it even makes it look like I know what I'm doingIn theory it should have been the same, as the new bearings were exactly the same, but you never know what tolerances they have been made to - they were aftermarket bearings, so worth doing the exercise. It is also worth noting that the original preload I measured was 0.00 and the input shaft was tight, so I know I've got this a lot better than it was when I pulled it out as the input shaft spins nicely as it should.
I'll see if I can get the rest back together tomorrow...
Cheers - Gav



I would have been happy for it to stay there.
Reply With Quote
. I had previously stripped it down and inspected and measured things up to see what I needed. Turned out I needed a full gasket and seal kit, centre diff spider shims and new input shaft bearings. All up these parts were around the $120 mark if I remember correctly. 






In theory it should have been the same, as the new bearings were exactly the same, but you never know what tolerances they have been made to - they were aftermarket bearings, so worth doing the exercise. It is also worth noting that the original preload I measured was 0.00 and the input shaft was tight, so I know I've got this a lot better than it was when I pulled it out as the input shaft spins nicely as it should.


Bookmarks