Thread: wheel bearings D1

Did you get the numbers off the bearings as I would like to know what they are for my one? As for the rest always change the grease for new stuff when your in there, it's just good practice.

Originally Posted by QSDT

Did you get the numbers off the bearings as I would like to know what they are for my one? As for the rest always change the grease for new stuff when your in there, it's just good practice.

Just ring any bearing supplier QSDT and they are able to look the parts up, much cheaper than getting them through land rover.

Hi Edddo, as long as there is plenty of grease and no mud worked in with the grease leave them, if dirt has worked its way in pull them out clean them and repack them, for the sake of an afternoons work you will save yourself quite a bit of money. Matt

Greased wheel bearings will always give trouble. I and a number of colleagues have experienced contamination leading to destroyed bearings - due mainly to the fact that the 'oil seal' fitted is actually a 'grease wiper' and as such does not have any garter springs at all. So a temporary fix is to replace the 'grease wiper' with an oil seal - the one I recommend is standard from an early Rangie and has a double lip and a garter spring on each.
A better fix is to:

• Remove the small axle oil seal
• Drill a 3mm hole on the underside of the stub axle between where the bearings locate - this allows/ensures that oil will reach both bearings easier than if it has to pass through the outer one in order to reach the inner one.
• Replace the grease wiper with the double lipped oil seal (Corteco P/N 15510067 or Rover P/N RTC3511 <A>)as mentioned above.
• Pre oil (with diff oil) bearings on assembly.
• Ensure that rubber cap on Driving member is in good condition - replace if not or seal on with silicon.
• Top up oil in diff (and swivel pin housings [CV joints] if doing front hubs) and check after 100kms or so - after oil has had time to work its way into the hubs.

This is actually a return to the Series method of wheel bearing lubrication and has been successfully done by myself and friends on a number of Discos and Defenders without any further wheel bearing troubles. The only thing you have to watch is that the oil seal surface is in good condition (fit a stainless steel 'Speedie Sleeve' if surface is badly scored) and seal is fitted correctly.
Another advantage of running bearings in oil is that any fault/leak is easily noticed and can be attended to before major problems occur.

Happy motoring

Originally Posted by Ace

Just ring any bearing supplier QSDT and they are able to look the parts up, much cheaper than getting them through land rover.

Hi Edddo, as long as there is plenty of grease and no mud worked in with the grease leave them, if dirt has worked its way in pull them out clean them and repack them, for the sake of an afternoons work you will save yourself quite a bit of money. Matt

You want Set 37 Timken...

OE parts (Timken) arent too bad if you get them from the right place! (HINT!!!)

Cheers
Tombraider

For water removal you could try draining, mixing 1l of metho to the cheapest oil you can get, fill your diff with this then drain off, Just be sure to use a Gear grade oil. The metho will mix with both the water and the oil pulling the water into the oil... ITs only temporary as as the metho evaporates off the water will fall back into the oil eventually seperating out leaving you with water in the bottom again but you should have plenty of time to effect an oil change.

Dont actuallly drive the vehicle with this blended oil in it... bad things may happen.

Alternatively If youve pulled the axles out simply attach and airline from a decent compressor to the filler or drain bung and let that run for an hour or so. Set the regulator to flow about enough air to knock over an empty beer can from about 4 inches away.

Dave

"In a Landrover the other car is your crumple zone."

thanks for that all

Those mud seals dont look that impressive do they, but even so I'm surprised how little mud/water contamination I have really. I do prefer the early rangie set up tho. Do people really use an endfloat gauge when setting WB's on discos..as recomended by my Haynes manual..always just done it by feel.

Originally Posted by edddo

thanks for that all

Those mud seals dont look that impressive do they, but even so I'm surprised how little mud/water contamination I have really. I do prefer the early rangie set up tho. Do people really use an endfloat gauge when setting WB's on discos..as recomended by my Haynes manual..always just done it by feel.

Was advised by an engineer many years ago that the type of wheel bearings used by Land Rovers do not require any end float. Simply nip up by hand using about a 30 to 40 cm bar on your socket/tube spanner, spin wheel to 'bed' bearings in then nip up nut again and fit locking tab and lock nut.
I have been doing it this way for years now and have not had a problem.
Always good to check regularly for movement by rocking wheel top to bottom.

Originally Posted by Xtreme

Was advised by an engineer many years ago that the type of wheel bearings used by Land Rovers do not require any end float. Simply nip up by hand using about a 30 to 40 cm bar on your socket/tube spanner, spin wheel to 'bed' bearings in then nip up nut again and fit locking tab and lock nut.
I have been doing it this way for years now and have not had a problem.
Always good to check regularly for movement by rocking wheel top to bottom.

They may not require any end float perhaps, but they are likely to overheat and fail if much preload is applied, whereas a small amount of end float removes this possibility. A good precaution after any bearing adjustment or service (on any vehicle or trailer) is to stop after about 10km (without heavy use of brakes) and feel the hub temperatures - all hubs should be the same temperature and not significantly different from other metal parts of the vehicle such as the body.
John