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Thread: wheel bearings D1

  1. #11
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    doing front tomorrow

    Finally getting around to checking the front wb's ...had a look today....now who can give me a tip on how to undo the swivel pin bolt under the brake line(I really dont want to disconnect the brake line)..and then how would you re tension it properly. ? With my mechanical skills and toolkit all I could think of was a ring spanner and a hammer, no way to get a socket on to it?

    My third 98 D1 300tdi Auto -now registered
    81 Rover SD1 manual - long term project

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by edddo
    Finally getting around to checking the front wb's ...had a look today....now who can give me a tip on how to undo the swivel pin bolt under the brake line(I really dont want to disconnect the brake line)..and then how would you re tension it properly. ? With my mechanical skills and toolkit all I could think of was a ring spanner and a hammer, no way to get a socket on to it?
    Did mine today as it happens and I was heard to remark...what fool designed that?

    ...there is a spring clip securing the hose brake hose to the bracket... lever this off and you can maneuver the brake line sufficiently to get a socket in there.

    It is advisable to put a bottle jack under the rear of the hub before you undo the two swivel pin bolts this will prevent the swivel pin grease from leaking out...the hub will drop down slightly allowing the grease to leak from the ball otherwise. Then put the bolts in temporarily while you do the job.
    Last edited by one_iota; 2nd September 2006 at 06:59 PM.
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  3. #13
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    hey...im confused.....or its just my memory playing up again.....

    why do you need to remove the swivel pin bolts to get to the bearings....?
    dont you just need to remove the caliper and rotor...?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    hey...im confused.....or its just my memory playing up again.....

    why do you need to remove the swivel pin bolts to get to the bearings....?
    dont you just need to remove the caliper and rotor...?
    According to Haynes removing the brake line bracket which is attached by the two swivel pin bolts makes removing the caliper easier.

    Who am I to argue...but like I said "what fool designed this?"
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  5. #15
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    Just another trick is a length of pipe to stop the hub rotating when you undo/redo the bolts to the driving member wedged between the member and the wheel studs.

    A fair bit of torque is required to undo the bolts...I have an extension bar that gives me about 450mm of leverage

    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
    hey...im confused.....or its just my memory playing up again.....

    why do you need to remove the swivel pin bolts to get to the bearings....?
    dont you just need to remove the caliper and rotor...?
    well thing is..there isnt enough brakeline there to manouvure the caliper away from the rotor without undoing the hose bracket..which uses the swivel pin bolts. Excellent thinking LR.

    Hey incisor another trick in undoing the hub bolts is to loosen them before you jack the car up

    My third 98 D1 300tdi Auto -now registered
    81 Rover SD1 manual - long term project

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