Thread: Series IIA Ignition Switch

Originally Posted by Brisruss

Does anyone know how to remove the ignition switch from the panel?

I have unscrewed the bezel from the switch but the part where the key fits in is bigger than the bezel and it does not come out. There is a small hole in the front which I tried prodding a wire through but no luck.

The vehicle came without a key so I want to get one cut or fit a new switch.

Thanks,
Russ

On all of mine I have simply removed the bezel nut at the front and then removed it. If you just want to get a key cut, have a look on the body of the switch for a 4 digit number. That is the key number, you can get a new key cut just from that if you can find it.

Try from the back

I think I have the same problem as stated above, I got a new ignition barrel and keys from the UK. I have disconnected and pulled out the ignition switch, but the barrel does not want to come out. Maybe I have to turn the barrel to a different position, but I cannot without a key?

The local locksmith was no help, saying the 4-digit code on the switch was no good, and that he couldn't pick the lock or remove the barrel.

Is the locksmith just not very good at his job, or do I need to get a whole new switch for the new barrel?

Sorry, forgot to add its a 1971 petrol 2a with turnkey start.

Thanks,

Sam

Originally Posted by series3

I think I have the same problem as stated above, I got a new ignition barrel and keys from the UK. I have disconnected and pulled out the ignition switch, but the barrel does not want to come out. Maybe I have to turn the barrel to a different position, but I cannot without a key?

The local locksmith was no help, saying the 4-digit code on the switch was no good, and that he couldn't pick the lock or remove the barrel.

Is the locksmith just not very good at his job, or do I need to get a whole new switch for the new barrel?
<snip>

Sam

The Locksmith is not very good, he is probably a domestic/industrial locksmith and doesn't have the automotive codes. Look in your yellow pages for a automotive locksmith and they should be able to cut from code. The key blank is likely to be "FP" but could be any of the "F?" series. Cutting from code is often expensive, sometimes more than a replacement ignition switch.

In regard to removing the switch, it just pushes out, however sometimes corrosion and movement cuts a groove in the switch body, rotate the switch so the slot is vertical and push (possibly hard) and it should come out the back.

Removing the barrel, usually requires the key as they need to rotate the barrel and pull at the same time, it's hard to pick the tumblers and pull the barrel simultaneously.

There used to be an automotive locksmith on Rocky Point Road, Ramsgate but he was always out on the road and rarely in the shop. I have however noticed that there is one on Forrest Road Arncliffe, almost oposite the Arncliffe Hotel, I'll let you know if he's any good when I see him in the next couple of days to key alike Gog's doors etc.

Diana

You may find the whole switch has been twisted around in the panel. It has a flat face on one side of the threaded section and this may not be where it is meant to be in relation to the dash panel. It will probably take quite a bit of force to get it out, and the dash panel may be too badly damaged to easily fit a new one. Worth trying, though. If you already have a new switch for it, it's okay to carefully sacrifice the old one. It even may be possible to repair the switch hole once it's out. Hope this helps.

Dan.
69 2A 88"pet4 (with an identity crisis), 68 2B FC pet6, plus others...

Thanks Diana,

I will see what an auto locksmith can do for me tomorrow (plus a bucketload of spares, haha).

I should add a belated thanks to the ex-military crowd who helped me out at ABD, along with bobslandies, Shonky and Isuzutoo-eh. I would have been in much more trouble without their help.

Originally Posted by series3

Thanks Diana,

I will see what an auto locksmith can do for me tomorrow (plus a bucketload of spares, haha).

I should add a belated thanks to the ex-military crowd who helped me out at ABD, along with bobslandies, Shonky and Isuzutoo-eh. I would have been in much more trouble without their help.

I know that feeling with the ABD too, my clutch slave cylinder failed en-route, so it was start in gear at the lights and change gear clutchless from North Parramatta all the way to the workshop at Moorebank.

As mentioned - find a better locksmith.

When I rebuilt my mil IIA, I had no keys for the (mil SIII) doors. I took both door locks into Eastern Suburbs locksmiths in Morningside, Brisbane. They cut a key for the driver's side (based on the numbers or just dismantling the barrel and checking the cuts), then they dismantled the passenger side barrel and cut the lock to fit the DC key!!!

Thinking of this - I will have to take the county locks in, so they can cut the PS lock to be the same as the DS, and the rear door to be the same as the fuel filler!