Awesome Ron.
Jason Lock
Found a mark on one tracta joint where it slides and shows the way the drive can fail by metal debris coming off and going though hub reduction gears or bevel box gears.
The so called unwinding of the drive line by going up gutters or driving over wooden sleepers was about getting the load off the tracta faces for a short time so oil could recoat the the tracta fork face.
The oil dag should help with this and drive dis connects as with the disconnects there will be not inter wheel constant load up of the tracta joints and it only takes backing off on the throttle or drive every now and then to get slack on the tracta joints which are driving the vehicle.
Off road use moves the tracta joint forks from loaded to unload positions all the time allowing oil the coat the fork faces,,,,,,with or without drive disconnects.
That tracta fork will be going back in as it lost the metal only and no damage was done to the knuckle it goes into........it may even hold oil better.
I found this on you tube.
Don't watch the first part............look from about 20 minutes into it.
It has some good views of the cabin and running down a road from the top of the cabin.
It is also interesting to get a American angle on the stalwart.
The brakes were building up.......most likely a incorrectly adjusted master cylinder or air pack..........the brakes are dual circult and why 3 brake discs were getting hot and not the other 3.
They also appear to know very little about the stalwart.
2nd gear starts are normal......not 1st gear starts.........gears changes must be made slowly ....normally double shuffling is not needed on 2nd though to 5th.
To do a gear change from 1st to 2nd takes a bit of skill as it is across the box with its unusual gear pattern and the stalwart will not roll very well if in a turn, so the change from 1st to 2nd is better done at a stop if you are not very skilled on the stalwart........just like a high /low gear change on a normal transfercase if you are not skilled........1st gear is the off road crawl gear and in most cases 2nd gear will do most off road work.
The B81 Rolls is just so flexable and will pull from a standing start in 3rd gear as they found out in the vid and it is the easiest engine to start I have ever owned hot or cold bar none and uses no choke in Australias climate.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbxHyG_VcA4[/ame]
A few other things I can pick to bits on the above video..........the air is not released to the cabin and therefore air guage until over 60 psi is in the main air charge tank..........brakes have prority over any thing else air wise including the guage.
Parking brake is twin drum brakes mechanically operated and completely separate from the 6 wheel air over hydraulic disc.
The rubber flap thing screwed to the air ducting on the LHS of the cabin I don't know what it is for......it is not for the demisting system.....at a guess I think it is more to do with stopping light reflecting into the drivers eyes from the outside mirror??????
The stalwart is a wash with switches and levers.....it takes time to learn what they all do.
The stalwart has infra red driving light system like most other British FV vehicles of its time.
Best build thread i've ever seen for degree of difficulty and tenacity,
thanks Ron, truly inspirational!
DL
Sorry for coming on this so late, but why do you suggest the F head limits power and compression?
The F head can be a very efficient combustion chamber, effectively cross flow with significant turbulence to aid fuel mix and you can fit a much larger inlet and exhaust valves than you would be able to fit with a conventional overhead valve head. i.e. the Rover F head is a very efficient combustion chamber, although the exhaust valve is undersized for the capacity. It was the undersized exhaust valve and manifold design that lets the Rover motor down badly. The inlet valve is actually oversized.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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