Thread: The Ultimate FC

Its out.
Easy when you know how.

I can see this being replaced in the field as a assembly to save stuffing around.
This is the inner tracta joint on the vehicle.


Note I didn't need to undo the bolts around the housing and It would have been better if I had left them alone.

What happens is the ball that protects the tracta and keeps it oil tight is adjustable for wear, but the whole big bronze assembly can slide a small amount side ways in the bore of the inner tracta joint housing for allow for different radius of the wishbones and drive shafts.
To seal the big bronze sliding assembly for oil leaks to the out side world is a cork sealing ring.

The pic is showing the cork sealing ring which is normally on the bottom side of the inner tracta joint housing.
If you look carefully you can see it doesn't join correctly and will allow oil though.
I guess the cork has shrinked a bit or cut too short when fitted.
This cork sealing ring is leaking and not the ball/C/V housing seal.
Note the two small scratch marks.....they were not placed there my me.
Note the threaded ring to adjust the ball of the tracta joint.

To separate the inner and outer halves of the shafts of the inner and outer tracta joint four bolts are removed and two brass plugs.
The plugs give access to a pin and a retaining clip.
The clip is moved to one side with a screw driver and the pin driven out.
the two halves will separate.

The 330 miles on the speedo is looking correct as there is no wear in anything.
Also a supprize is the lack of backlash in the tracta joints, hub reduction and bevel boxes......almost none in fact..............not like a transmission of a Landrover at all.
I will get the trolley jack holder of the wheel station assembly done and finished correctly as it will be easier to refit it using a trolley jack than a forklift when working by ones self.

The next pic is the caliper and backing plate getting a lick of paint.


All easy now that I have done it.
I will not most likely touch the outer tracta joint seals as it may do more damage pulling it a part than good and I am thinking that way for the shock and rebound units on the upper wish bone.

I have laid out these pics so others may follow for I found confusing the lay out of it until I done it.
I know a bloke called Aussie is playing with a Saladin which is in a bad way and is doing the same job on all six stations currently.
I hope this helps........sign in and say goodday.
Have to chase that cork seal now.
Ron

Once again very interesting Ron, and highlights just how well engineered these things were in the first place.

It seems the only real complication is the size/weight of everything. If you have the appropriate special tools (wedges etc) and some reasonable lifting gear then it could almost be seen as pleaseant to work on?

Awaiting the next update with interest.

Originally Posted by 101 Ron

Have to chase that cork seal now.
Ron

Interesting work Ron; thank you for showing us all.

You should be able to make the seal with some cork gasketing; it can be glued together with Araldite to get the desired thickness.

If you have a lathe the cork can be glued to a wooden face plate such as MDF and a craft knife clamped in the turret; the prescribed diameters can then be measured and cut. A few dobs of hot glue in the centre of the cork should hold it, while the bit you want is cut free. A similar procedure works superbly when making felt seals and bushes.

If you don't have a lathe a fly-cutter in a drill press would work as well, but is not as safe a procedure,

Cheers Charlie

great pics Ron. keep em comin'