Thread: In line fuel pump

101 fuel pump part 589322 does not state 12v or 24v ,fuel gauge does come as both. the coil and distributor have been changed ,101 is on gas with no petrol tank ,with the ten year tank inspection due i am having change over to both fitted before rego

ho har

Originally Posted by The ho har's

101 fuel pump part 589322 does not state 12v or 24v ,fuel gauge does come as both. the coil and distributor have been changed ,101 is on gas with no petrol tank ,with the ten year tank inspection due i am having change over to both fitted before rego

ho har

Standard 101 fuel pump is 12 volt even if the machine is 24 volt.
Thats why its not stated

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

I bought a Goss GE206 as a backup pump.
20 kPa, 93 l/h, 24V, 0.8 A
Is this suitable?

yes..

more or less, 20kpa =3psi, 93l/h=1.5l/m (which is probably its free flow delivery rate) 24v means it can be operated from the cranking batteries via a relay

I'd probably go that way, turf the 12v unit if all its running is the pump and the coil and fit a 24v coil or failing that get one of the small 2a black box module 24/12v reducers.

As Ron indicated there is a dropper somewhere (I think under the drivers seat) that drops the voltage to 12v for the fule pump. Any 12v pump will run off the wires that goes to the the original pump.

Gauges are 24v and unique to the 24v systems.

Just in front and below the coil you will find a box with 24v going into it. This is the reducer for the coil. The box is just a length of wire that can get hot when on and if you put a multimeter on the output side it will still read 24v but under with the load of the coil in the circuit you will find the voltage in the compete circuit is 10v. Now normal coils run on 9v (with a ballast) so a normal 12v ballasted coil (such as a Bosch GT 40) will work in place of the original 101 coil (don't as me how I know all this - bitter experience).

On 12v 101s the coil runs on 6v.

On my 101 I had major coil issues and then 24v dissy problems, so I changed my dissy to a 12v electronic bosch version and a GT40 coil with ballast. I use the switched 24v that originally fed the coil dropper to run a relay that provides 12v direct from my deep cycle battery.

The electronic ignition improved fuel consumption on gas from 10mpg to 11 mpg but petrol went from 10mpg to 15mpg. As you will find, that unlike most landies the 101 gives pretty consistent fuel consumption in most circumstances - mainly because it is basically flat to the floor driving in most circumstances.

Garry

On the subject of gauges Garry,

It is broken
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-milita...ent-fixer.html
I saved it from the bin.
PM your postal address if you want it.

These are a bit of white man's magic for me - I believe the 101 amp gauges do not work on their own and have a separate shunt somewhere - mine does not work but I do not know if it is the gauge or the shunt but not worried too much about it - there is the charging light on the dash.

Likewise - not sure if our 101s all had twin amp gauges or it was only the ones with the radios in the Rapier group.

Mick - for a fuel pump get a 12v version and plug it in to the wires that run to the OEM pump. Those that I listed above work well in the 101 - I gave my spare to a 101 owner who was having issues and it worked fine. I would carry a spare though - they are cheap enough.

However I don't think original pumps are reasonable in price if purchased overseas - even Anthony's price is OK.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

These are a bit of white man's magic for me - I believe the 101 amp gauges do not work on their own and have a separate shunt somewhere - mine does not work but I do not know if it is the gauge or the shunt but not worried too much about it - there is the charging light on the dash.

The shunt resisters for both gauges live in the radio connection box on the side of the battery box.
Peter

My 101 still has a amp meter shunt on the side of the battery box.