Brute's 101

**Brute** · 7th December 2013, 09:08 AM

Originally Posted by 101 Ron

The original Nokken winch will only work and be fitted to the vehicle under the following conditions.
Use of Transfercase LT95...not the later model one.
The LT 95 transfercase must be set in its original location in the vehicle.
If you look at the drive on a 101 landy for a winch which is set up and working, it is a unusual arrangement and the PTO housing works only with the LT95.
Engine conversions usually move the transfercase farther rearwards\downwards, making fitting of the winch drive difficult.

At the moment the gearbox & transfer are on the original mounts in the original position, the diesel is on the original chassis mounts but on custom engine brackets, so hopefully should all line up. The winch came with it and appears complete but is not fitted.

**Brute** · 7th December 2013, 09:13 AM

Originally Posted by Sitec

There's always this option...... Chop chop....

Is that one of your projects simon? Was that the plan before you adapted the LT 230?

**Sitec** · 7th December 2013, 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by Brute

Is that one of your projects simon? Was that the plan before you adapted the LT 230?

Nah, I'd heard that it had been done as the LT95 Transfer box is reasonably strong, so looked it up in images on Google. Don't think I'd b able to put the grinder to a good box!

**Brute** · 21st December 2013, 12:16 PM

Its got a bit cooler in the west so managed a couple of evenings in the shed.
Got the roof off and now its so easy to work on. Bodged up a couple of oil lines so hopefully will spin up the oil pump this weekend, then just got to run some temporary fuel lines and starter cables and see what happens!!!

**stuee** · 21st December 2013, 12:35 PM

Looks good. The install of the chev looks very neat from the photo. The previous owner must have been a Caterpillar fan

Very envious of your hoist too!

**Sitec** · 21st December 2013, 08:07 PM

Wow! That looks great! Yeah, you have to see what that engine does. Just remember to have something suitable to cap the air intake as you start it for the first time! Interesting turbo fit up! The length of the right bank pipe to turbo might give it a bit of lag... The early turbo versions of these engines were called 'sidewinders'.... The turbo was much smaller and only fed from the right bank. Are you going to retain the hard top or go back to canvas? Cheers for now!

**Brute** · 21st December 2013, 09:37 PM

I`ve run the oil pressure up with a drill and got 20psi until it started pouring out of the vacuum pump hole so I suppose that is ok for now.
Just got the turbo return into a bucket for now.
Rigged up an old rangy fuel pump to get the diesel up to the injector pump and a couple of battery leads and turned it over.
turns over really slowly and the starter motor got hot, so took it off and it seems to spin freely with power on it.
The battery leads I`m using are a bit light so I`ve put a couple of batteries on charge and will look for some heavier duty battery cable and give it another go tomorrow.
There is a solenoid built in to the injector pump which I assume needs power to run too.

**Sitec** · 21st December 2013, 10:11 PM

Originally Posted by Brute

I`ve run the oil pressure up with a drill and got 20psi until it started pouring out of the vacuum pump hole so I suppose that is ok for now.
Just got the turbo return into a bucket for now.
turns over really slowly and the starter motor got hot, so took it off and it seems to spin freely with power on it.
There is a solenoid built in to the injector pump which I assume needs power to run too.

Yes re solenoid on fuel pump. Give it a fused 12v feed and you should hear it click. If the engine has been sat for a while it might be a little tight.. You could always run the turbo return pipe back in thru the oil filler cap for test running.. Cable tie it there tho! Re starter... Not sure why its getting hot, but crawl under and sand the side of it and check its not 24 volt..

From memory the standyne rotary pump fitted to these engines is not self bleed, so you'll need to bleed it up.

**Brute** · 21st December 2013, 10:28 PM

I wondered about it being 24 v and looked for a voltage on the starter while I had it off but couldn't find anything.
12 v is throwing the pinion in ok though.
I've loosened all the injector pipes to bleed them so see how it goes tommorrow.

**chazza** · 22nd December 2013, 09:57 AM

Originally Posted by Brute

turns over really slowly and the starter motor got hot, so took it off and it seems to spin freely with power on it.
The battery leads I`m using are a bit light so I`ve put a couple of batteries on charge and will look for some heavier duty battery cable and give it another go tomorrow.

Good idea to get heavy cable; the larger the better but make sure it has the right number of strands, or greater. This link might help you Autosparks, World leading supplier of classic car wiring looms check out the table half way down the page.

Also; go through the entire starter-circuit and make sure that: every connector is tight on its cable and soldered on; that there are earth straps in place for the engine and gearbox; that all connectors, including the earths, are bright and clean and protected from corrosion with something like vaseline; that earth connection points on the chassis are also bright and clean; and that the battery is fully charged and the terminal posts are bright and clean with vaseline on them, just like the cable clamps should be.

If it doesn't crank faster after all that, start suspecting the starter motor,

Cheers Charlie

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