Monster 6 Turbo Diesel into a 101.

With the engine in place I'm able to look to making prop shafts. I'm using other props rather than cut the originals. This way everything stays complete should I ever want to put it back. For the front prop I was going to use the prop that 'fell off' the rear of the 110 in the yard.. but having measured up, marked up the 115mm that needs to be removed and then chopped it, I was horrified to find the tube is only 2mm thick!!! Is this normal!!!!??? Now looking for a Series 109 rear prop as I would assume they are thicker.... Anyone got one lying around?

Once cut, there's no point leaving it in two pieces so I've measured it all up and set it up for welding.

Prop welded. With it in place I can see what I have to cut out of the sump. Kicking myself for rushing ahead and reversing the sump! Hey ho, the engine would not have even sat in the chassis had I not!
This afternoon will be spent having a bit of a workshop blitz!

What are you intending to do to the front suspension to carry the extra weight?

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Originally Posted by Sitec

...I was horrified to find the tube is only 2mm thick!!! Is this normal!!!!???

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Sounds right to me, I remember cutting one up years ago and it wasn't very heavy. I have a u/s 109" one in the shed I think; I can cut the end off it, if you are desperate to know,

Cheers Charlie

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Originally Posted by garrycol

What are you intending to do to the front suspension to carry the extra weight?

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Its sat on its springs ATM with engine in situe, and has only dropped 10 mm... The rad is empty tho, there's no ROPS, engine cover, exhaust etc but I have a second set of front springs which I plan to split. I'll use the lower leaves on the nose of the 101 and the single leaves that are left for a camp trailer that I plan to build.... after the diesel is done! Here's a pic, along with the new slightly longer than original 12.9 Cap Head Bolts and heavy washers. It worked out about ideal with the Nissan last time and also gives a 15mm lift to the nose (not that a 101 needs to be any higher!!). :)

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Originally Posted by chazza

Sounds right to me, I remember cutting one up years ago and it wasn't very heavy. I have a u/s 109" one in the shed I think; I can cut the end off it, if you are desperate to know,

Cheers Charlie

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Hi Charlie.. Define u/s... I'm about to put a wanted advert in the right section for exactly that... A 109 rear prop! If its just joints and flanges, I can change them.. If its splines then its not so good..... Cheers!:)

So, today was going to be a chilled day, but as SWMBO managed to hurt her foot last nite she's been resting inside all day. Nursing duties done and Im given the green light to hit the man cave!! Now the engine and box are located, I can start with making/adapting all the surrounding stuff.. With the temporary front prop on and at a nice gradual angle, it was time to look at the rear. The rear angle was no worse than the original, but as the prop is only 480mm long and will have a lot more torque running thru it, I've decided to lift the diff nose so it matches the output shaft. Now I know Salisburys don't like nose lifts, but Im not talking a lot. I've loosened the U Bolts and lifted the nose to match the output shaft. This opened up an 8mm gap on the mounting flats, so I've now tapered the mounts by removing 8mm from the front to lift the nose.

Here's a shot of the axle now its been bolted tight again. The U Bolts have pulled up nicely, and the castings are sitting nicely against the springs. The diff nose flange has lifted a max of 30mm so not a lot and this has lessened the prop angle and put the two mating flange faces parallel. This can only help the situation, can't be spotted unless you really look and wouldn't affect the vehicle if I had to refit the LT95. :)

After a chilled lunch I got back into it and made the rear prop. Here it is resting in place. Short but not too steep! :)