Thread: 101 Winch Cable

Thread in order of your diagram
1,4,3,4

First gear winching itself out at idle.
Then top gear and a few revs......out she comes
[ame=http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=CLIP0075.flv][/ame]

Great vid Ron,

So do you still think having the cable out the rear is preferrable to the front?

Some other questions??

When I was taking the cable out it was very slow - do you pull yours out under power in reverse - is it possible to pull it out by hand?

I see in the vid you were doing a single line pull - have you needed to use a snatch block in a double line pull?

Does having the transfer case in gear so the wheels turn help much or is it not necessary.

Cheers

Garry

The winch has no free wheel and there has to be winched in or out under power.
To winch out just neutralise the transfercase and select reverse and pull the hand throttle out to about 4000 rpm and then walk around the front /back to the cable and you will find it will not feed out until you pull it.
At 4000rpm the cable will feed out at walking pace.
It is possible to feed the cable on the capstan the other way around so you have 4 speeds out and one speed in.
I like mine the way it is , one speed out and four speeds in so I can show off the speed of a good PTO winch to those silly electric things.
The winch as you would know is rated at 6000lb............but this is a miltiary rating and the winch in the real world will do more.
Even when set at 6000lb ......in the real world is more than enough to pull any similar size vehicle out of the poo.
The load clutch adjustment is a bit touchy and may not work any how as it may not release with lack of use.
This winch is different and has good and bad points
The bad stuff is
The winch has no brake and will let the load go when the clutch is pushed in.
It is extremely easy TO DRIVE OFF WITH THE WINCH STILL ENGUAGED AND SHORTEN THE CHASSIS ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE.
No free spool clutch
The good stuff
The winch is self laying and will operate winching in at high speed without fear of problems.
If you have a load on the winch and you want to let it out a bit you can just depress the clutch a bit and the load will move back untill you release the clutch again.
The winch will not operate in wards or out wards unless the cable is tight on the capstan.
On the farm I have had the vehicle winching in slowly in first gear and go down to the job ( a huge log) and put the chains around the log and get things sorted......just give the cable a sharp pull and the winch will start pulling in 50 mtrs away.
You can drive and winch at the same time and the winch and vehicle is designed to do this if needed.
I have not bothered as the winch works well enough.
I leave the cable at the rear is in NSW the vehicle is not legal with the fairhead on the front for road use....(bull bar laws)
The winch on the rear will pull cars onto a car float with the use of a snatch block on the rear pintle hook (works on the boat too)
I carry a 15/16 spanner so the the cable can be transfered front or rear if needed.
I find little need to winch from the front.
The 101 is usually recovering itself rearwards out of the poo or backing up to recover someone else.
I usually place the nose near a tree and use a tree truck protector striaght onto the front pintle hook to anchor the vehicle.
The cable lenght is twice that of those electric rubbish.
I have even one day winched the vehicle sideways off a tree from the rear by running the cable sideways though the fair head and around a tree and back onto the front pintle hook.....winch in and side ways you go.
On the logs around the farm I use direction changes and two to one with snatch blocks as some of the logs go to four tonnes.
Rear winching is better if you have someone observing and giving directions.
JUST BE VERY CAREFUL AND TRAIN YOURSELF NOT TO PUT THE TRANSFERCASE INTO GEAR UNTILL THE WINCH LIGHT IS OUT AND THE PTO LEVER IS LOCKED.
Happy winching

Thanks Ron,

That is really helpful and confirms most of what I was thinking - noting that this weekend was the first time I have played with the winch and it took forever to pull it out (note to self - get hand throttle fixed) - engine was at idle.

I agree that one speed out and four speeds in is the best setup. I also can see how it would be easy to drive off with the winch still on. My previous owner had moved the light from between the main dials to make it more visible but I might change it again to a red flashing light and maybe add a low level audible indicator as well.

I will leave my cable until after my roadworthy in case they have a problem with the bits sticking out the front - I guess the rear will not be an issue.

Thanks

Garry