crank handles pop up on eBay. There was a bulk lot of NOS ones that went for not much a while back.
Hilton Pollard at Colo Heights would probably have some kicking around...
As I indicated in the tech section I have been having problems with my starter.
Starter Issues
So I am up early in 2 degree Canberra weather to pull it out and see what is actually going on. Wish me good luck - I do not need these little diversions at this late time in getting the truck back on the road.
But this problem has got me thinking about hand cranking. I do not have any of the tools that go on the front or a crank handle but will be looking at getting a set in due course.
Has anyone actually started their 101 by hand cranking and if so is there a trick to doing it. I have started plane engines by hand but was never actually able to start the series 3 when I tried - was just too hard to turn over quick enough.
Also for those who still have their cranks - is it an item I could make as I assume they are rare as hens teeth - I also assume the handles are not mild steel but is slightly hardened with a bit of spring in it.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
crank handles pop up on eBay. There was a bulk lot of NOS ones that went for not much a while back.
Hilton Pollard at Colo Heights would probably have some kicking around...
[B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]
[COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
[U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
I guess the 101 crank handle is unique to the 101 as the engine is mounted further back in the car so is a bit longer than the RR one - but I dunno. I think you are right about the grunts - I am flat out lifting a 101 wheel and tyre these days let alone cranking one.
Removing the wheel arch cover allows good access to the bolts for the starter - have the top bolt off - you cannot use a socket though - the bolt is too close to the housing - luckily there is a cross cut into the top of the bolt head and the previous owner did not torque the bolt up - just a bit more than finger tight with a bit of easy remove locktite to hold it. I doubt I would have got it out otherwise.
Anyway - finished lunch - so back to it.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Garry
Hilton P does have quite a collection of crank handles, including a very long one with bracket for an SIIB. I have one but my no 3 vehicle is sans a crank handle so I may acquire that one also.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Not a V8, however...
I have successfully hand cranked my IIA (when it was a 2.25P) on many occasions. MUCH easier if the engine is warm though, and the hand throttle is up a few notches.
Now it is a 2.25D - I haven't got a hope in hell. Never tried with the engine warm though.
A low compression V8 may be possible if you are reasonably fit/strong and the engine is in a good state of tune.
I watched a certain workshop truck owner trying to crank start a Centurian at Corowa!
He was unsuccessful but he lost about 3kgs in fluid doing it!
(PS - well, technically he was only crank starting the aux gen motor not the big Meteor but hey - don't let the facts get in the way of a good story...)
[B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]
[COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
[U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
What everyone has said, reinforces my own thoughts however, 101s are fitted with crank handles and my 101 still has the mounting brackets above the grill so someone at some time must have thought it could be done.
But then I suppose the designer had in mind some 20yo grunt build like Arnold Schwarzenegger rather than a 50s something porker like myself.
I have the starter out - just dirty and the teeth on the ring gear and the starter are worn a bit but basically OK - I can see where there has been poor meshing but if the gear is being thrown out properly the teeth faces should still have 95% contact.
So I wondering if there is enough initial oomph to fire the starter cog out quickly and far enough. I have pulled down the starter - all OK - brushes OK. In my spares I have a new solenoid and armature and have used the new solenoid. The armature looks all OK and as there is some sort of clip that I could wreck to put in a new solenoid I will stay with the old solenoid.
I will put the lot back in and see how we go. If still an issue - it will be off to the auto elect with the new bits I have. I assume my 24v starter is the same as the 12v starter except for the armature and solenoid so if I need a new starter I can get a 12v one from a wrecker and put my new bits in.
Oh - just in case I need it - is the ring gear part of the flywheel, pressed onto the flywheel and bolted onto the flywheel. I have a 3.9 ring gear but it is on a auto flex plate.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
[B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]
[COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
[U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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