Thread: HELP! Anyone raised a PUMA? Big TROUBLE!!!

What can one say. I sympathise.

From what I understand, the Puma has its gearbox/tc case rotated for whatever reason, end result is t/c case sticks out below chassis rails & all the driveshaft angles are different compared to a TD5.

So traditional fixes may not work.

A D/C front shaft will/may cure vibration issues, but won't fix binding at extreme angles. A wide angle uni is needed for that. My Td5 Defender has a D2 D/C front shaft for just this reason - eliminate vibration, not extra uni angles.

I can only suggest drop it back to std ride height. Any problems "should" be eliminated.

Lifting issues with Pumas seem to be trial & error, & perhaps need documented examples here to see what does & doesn't work.

Regards
Max P

Just a quick question before I get back to the fight today:
If I get them to put the original springs back in and get the d/c put in as well, will this possibly stop the vibration and stop the binding of the uni all in one? Or is my lack of driveline knowledge showing and you can't do both? I don't know and I'm not afraid to ask maybe a dumb question from you people in the know!

Thanx in advance.
Povman.

You'd hope so. And in standard trim the d/c shaft just shouldn't be necessary.

Did you drive it for any time before taking it to ARB? i.e. are you sure it was all ok beforehand?

And it might be worth checking what the lift actually is. Measure from the centre of the wheel up to the mudguard flare, all round. Check against a new one at at Dealer when no-one is looking.

Regards
Max P

Is the front prop shorter on a puma or the same length as the earlier ones?

The rotated transfer case should improve the situation really, as they rotated it down.

It would be interesting to know the length of it, and the difference in height.

Can you meaure from the ground to the centre of the diff flange, and then the ground to the centre of the Transfer case output flange, and then the length of it if you had a minute?

Could compare it to an earlier model then.

Rgds
Pete

I am having a hard time believing that the lift had anything to do with creating the problem.Surely,when the suspension was fitted,the vehicle was on the hoist in a free wheel situation.Which means that the suspension was under its maximum extension.Which would mean that the angle of the tailshaft would be at its maximum operating angle,and therefore at the point where unis were going to bind.So when any technician was doing up the bolts on the taishaft,he would have found it very difficult,if not been unable to rotate the shaft.Another point is,if anyone has driven a vehicle with binding unis,you can't help but notice the noise and vibration the minute you move the vehicle.I would be thinking more along the lines of incorrect endfloat setting in the transfer,or the nut on the yoke; bottoming out before tightening the yoke.Allowing endplay in the transfer,which can be exacerbated with the angle and therefore operating length of the tailshaft as it is able to move on the splines.

Have seen this happen a few times,over many years in the trade.

Wayne

Hey Guys,

I have been watching this thread with concern and confusion.

I posted earlier that I had my PUMA lifted with OME767 50mm springs to compensate for the bull bar and winch. ARB also put the stock factory shocks back in, as the vehicle only had about 5,000k's on the clock at the time

Up to this thread being posted I didn't know that there was a problem. I do not get vibrations or any thing else to indicate that there is a problem.

I have done about 16,000k's since the lift. Including a trip through the Simpson, that saw the suspension, front and rear, travel through it full range on numerous occasion each day.

There is something funny going on here !

How can one PUMA have these problems and other ones don't ? They all use the same parts - Diff's - prop shafts - Transfer .

There is a post on this thread from another member talking of his PUMA with 50mm lift with king springs now with 75,000k's - no problems.

Not an expert by any stretch here but it doesn't add up !!!

PovMan – hope it all works out for you.

Originally Posted by Tusker

...And it might be worth checking what the lift actually is. Measure from the centre of the wheel up to the mudguard flare, all round. Check against a new one at at Dealer when no-one is looking.

Regards
Max P

PovMan - I just measured my 2007 110 (which is bog standard, no winch, Std rims/tyres, no dual batteries or anything else remotely heavy added) and from the centre of the centre-cap to the edge lip of the wheel arch "eye-brow" is 495mm on both sides, sitting on a flat concrete pad.

HTH deterrmine what your actual lift is.
David

Mine measures 535mm from hub centre(front) to bottom edge of flare, both side, on flat concrete.

HTH.

Cheers