Thread: Some good news about my Puma

Originally Posted by Scallops

Well - that was the issue - my EGR valve was clogged up to the Bejezus with carbon

See this thread on Defender2.net: Defender2 - View topic - Service additives. Apparently the UK stealers use an EGR cleaner during services - may be worth checking out?

Personally I stick a bottle of Wynns diesel cleaner in the spare tank every 5000km or so. It kills off any bacteria that may grow in the tank/lines, and that also cleans the injectors. I learnt about this product when I put a bottle in SWAMBO's Audi A3 TDi - it drank some bad diesel, was not well at all. She is now running better than when she was new

On a more regular basis, I add 200ml 2-stroke oil to every 2nd tank of diesel.

Originally Posted by jake

It has been mentioned about extended warranty for the 110, I was informed by the dealer when I purchased my new defender this month that the extended warranty is not avilalbe to defenders in Victoria. Can anyone shed some light on this please.

It's not just Victoria.
Apparently, the Defender does not qualify for the 'genuine' extended warranty due to it being classed as a commercial vehicle.

Originally Posted by Scouse

It's not just Victoria.
Apparently, the Defender does not qualify for the 'genuine' extended warranty due to it being classed as a commercial vehicle.

According to MR and Southern Cross, the Allianze policy will cover everything the original warranty did. I'm hoping I won't need to find out!

Originally Posted by Scallops

Thanks Justin,

Would you also recommend doing as Austral say and driving it, say once per week for 5 minutes, on the freeway at 100-110 km/h in 4th or 5th to "de-carbon" the engine?

I'm revving it up to 3 grand on the change up from 3rd to 4th on most changes now - once the engine is warm.

uumm i would and i wouldn’t

Driving at high revs and low load will open the EGR valve fully, one respect this will increase the gas flow and possibly cleaning it or it may just put more junk in there.
Italian tune ups really work, yer good one.

Personally a 2mm plate cut the same as the tin gasket on the hot side of the egr valve will stop any gas flow and will not hinder the electrical operation of the valve. Its also hard to notice unless the egr valve is actually removed.

a well known problem with a well known illegal solution.

But then you should only be fitting a blocking plate for diagnostic reasons followed by a couple of days test driving in an attempt to see if it problem will replicate or not.

Originally Posted by Gav110

The rationale for EGR is apparently that by recirculating exhaust gases, it burns any unburnt fuel and also lowers particulates/emissions; but the rationale against is that it is effectively bathing the engine in carbon which gunks it up over time (hence why the EGR valves can cake in carbon).

What I will do is let LR decide - if they won't address it I will discuss my options with them.

Drove it again last night after I got it back from MLR - it revs cleanly and freely up to 1800/1900 rpm - but from there until 2500 on a light throttle - it feels constrained by something.

An EGR recirculation exhaust gases into the inlet manifold under light load or throttle positions. the rational is that by adding CO2 you are displacing oxygen thus riching up the mix, the less surplus oxygen in the combustion chamber the less NO is produced. Or to put another way the nitrogen in the air drawn into the motor passes though the combustion process with out being modified.

It has nothing to do with economy, fuel efficiency or power.

Full throttle it will be closed, low boost it will be closed, idle it will be closed. It will open on partial throttle or under light loads, IE tooling around town or on the motor way cruising at 110 and 1/2 throttle.

First monthly update - Puma (still) going like a freight train - YEAH!!!

Originally Posted by clean32

uumm i would and i wouldn’t

Driving at high revs and low load will open the EGR valve fully, one respect this will increase the gas flow and possibly cleaning it or it may just put more junk in there.
Italian tune ups really work, yer good one.

Personally a 2mm plate cut the same as the tin gasket on the hot side of the egr valve will stop any gas flow and will not hinder the electrical operation of the valve. Its also hard to notice unless the egr valve is actually removed.

a well known problem with a well known illegal solution.

But then you should only be fitting a blocking plate for diagnostic reasons followed by a couple of days test driving in an attempt to see if it problem will replicate or not.

unfotunatly if you block the EGR the garage will know as it brings on the engine light and logs a code that the EGR or the MAF has failed (can't remembre which one)...to avoid putting on the Light you have to drill I think its a 10 or 5mm hole in the plate to allow some gas to pass through over the MAF thus tricking the ECU into thinking that its still working....

Pete from B-A-S did a fair bit of testing in this area with a number of cars in the UK

Originally Posted by dullbird

unfotunatly if you block the EGR the garage will know as it brings on the engine light and logs a code that the EGR or the MAF has failed (can't remembre which one)...to avoid putting on the Light you have to drill I think its a 10 or 5mm hole in the plate to allow some gas to pass through over the MAF thus tricking the ECU into thinking that its still working....

Pete from B-A-S did a fair bit of testing in this area with a number of cars in the UK

aarrr yes, but, ( EGR fail code not Maf) this will come on if you push it on a cold motor. i think there is a temp senser in there and buy using a plate it retains enough heat to not log a problem.

but having said that, its all new to me so i will look further into it.

who is this pete a-b-s??