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Thread: Dual-cab Defender 130 water tank - dimensions?

  1. #51
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Thanks Weeds - Vlad has a water tank sitting on the shelf at home which MAY find its way in eventually. Or he may sell that tank and go with a ute tank or something, who the heck knows... he's a dithering bugger that Vlad !
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  2. #52
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    I'll trawl through this later to see if I can get some ideas.
    At present I'll be removing the rear seat and placing one there.

  3. #53
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    Couldn't live without it Weeds....one of the best things I did.

    Having two young boys who are always covered in either mud (from motocross) or sand (they are doing Nippers at Southport), it is great to be able to hose off before getting into the truck.

    Plus it is great not having to worry about carrying water in smaller containers and trying to work where to store them.

    I have two tanks now. The one under the seat and one on the floor like you had as my boys are only 5 & 7 so in total I have 110 litres.

    Chops - not sure what the seat configuration is in a new 110 d/c, but I think it does not have the storage box like the 130's.

    Cheers
    Andrew
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  4. #54
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    Hi Andrew,
    No, it doesn't have the empty space under the seat shelf, so I'll end up with no seats, and will remove the brackets as well, which should give me a sizable space for a tank.
    The top of the tank will be the dogs seat/bed, so I can customize it to suit.

  5. #55
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    If you're going to put a big tank in make sure its baffled, you dont want any sudden shifts in weight distribution while clambering about offroad !
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  6. #56
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    Back in 2011 Chris from Abber tanks advised me I'd be fine using one of his polypropolene tanks for diesel - not so. I had a leak, and pulled the seats out and removed the storage box to get to the tank today. Tank expanded and 'wavy' on all sides - affected by the diesel. I think the leak was actually from the outlet, so re-sealed the outlet fitting, and tried to fit it back in, but the tank was so deformed I couldn't get the storage box/seat base back in properly. I don't recommend this solution for diesel.

    Not to find someone who can fabricate a metal tank for me.

    Is Ranga still around on here? Do you still have the original drawings?

  7. #57
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    I sent you an email, but for other people, I'll post it up again.

    Puma tank.jpg

    I can't seem to find the original pre-Puma 130 drawing, but this is the Puma version. The only difference is the Puma needed the chamfer at the front to avoid some bolts. If I did mine again, I think I'd put a breather on both ends, to avoid pressure build up when filling on an angle where the breather is on the low side. I think this causes an air pocket to pressurise, and after filling can actually push water back out. Also, I'd actually put the breathers on the top of the tank instead of the side. Wouldn't make much difference, but would ensure air is escaping from the very top of the tank.

    BTW, the height is 125mm (for those who can;t quite see it).

  8. #58
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    The tank dimensions were in my post on the first page of this thread
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  9. #59
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    Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for ... my tank has the chamfer.

    I have a lot of trouble filling mine at the bowser. I have to fill extremely slowly otherwise it just clicks off or blows back all the time. I always thought it was because of the size of the fill point (3/4" BSP)

    Also, I had my fill point put up the top ... does that matter at all? Is there any reason the fill should be at the bottom.

    I'm thinking about trying to get a fabricator to make an alloy/steel tank for me - either to these dimensions, or taking them the box itself, and have them make the tank the same dimensions, with all the same mounting holes, and weld on the mount points for the seats. That solution would maximise the capacity.

    Any idea who might consider such a job?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranga View Post
    I sent you an email, but for other people, I'll post it up again.

    Puma tank.jpg

    I can't seem to find the original pre-Puma 130 drawing, but this is the Puma version. The only difference is the Puma needed the chamfer at the front to avoid some bolts. If I did mine again, I think I'd put a breather on both ends, to avoid pressure build up when filling on an angle where the breather is on the low side. I think this causes an air pocket to pressurise, and after filling can actually push water back out. Also, I'd actually put the breathers on the top of the tank instead of the side. Wouldn't make much difference, but would ensure air is escaping from the very top of the tank.

    BTW, the height is 125mm (for those who can;t quite see it).

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