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Thread: TD5 Non-starter after new seals ??

  1. #1
    sasreg Guest

    TD5 Non-starter after new seals ??

    Alright guys.... I desperately need some help.

    2004 Land Rover 110 TD5 - 137,000 kms on the clock.

    For the past year or so I have had intermittent starting problems. Hot and cold. More so hot starts though. It has never failed to start, just may take a couple of times. Over the past year I have just been tinkering with bit here and there and seeing if the problem resolves itself.

    So far over the past year it has basically had the following:
    air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, centrifuge rotor, aux belt, belt tensioner, injector harness, cleaned ecu plugs, checked relays/fuses.

    A couple of months ago I had a mate hook up his nanocom and it gave 04-03, 10-06, 10-07, 15-02, 21-06. From what I could find from research, these particular codes are not much of a concern and not related.

    Yesterday, I thought I would change the injector copper washers and o-rings. Thought this may be the problem. Followed it all by the book and did a pretty good job of it, or so I thought. Primed and purged (the landy, not me), and the thing WILL NOT start. I have drained the battery trying. Tried purging and priming again. No luck. Engine turns and turns but will not fire. The injectors seals (some of them) did look like they were leaking when I changed them, they didn't appear to be in overly good shape. I gathered that when I had finished it probably would have just had the same old trouble starting, but would fire up. Now it turns out I have killed it by "fixing it".

    Anywho, Thought I would go out and try it again today, went through exactly the same process including new seals/orings, just incase I stuffed something up. Went through it ALL again. It will not fire. Just turns and turns. It sounds like there may be some air sucking at the filter, but it's always hard to tell. The pump it whining a little, louder for the first second of priming, then quite quiet.

    I guess I am wondering what I could have done by fixing the injector seals. By fixing them could I have compounded the problem somehow by fixing the seals due to pressures? Is it likely to be the fuel pump? But why just after I fixed the seals?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! Please help me with the non-starter!

    Cheers.

  2. #2
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    What is this injector seal changing weekend.

    Did mine today I purged about 9 times untill the pump sounded had a consistent drone and then click over the starter for about a min and she fired up.
    You did replace the in injectors in correct location?

  3. #3
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    Go to the firewall and make sure the inertia switch is pressed down. They can be knocked when pulling rocker cover and airbox etc off and trigger themselves.

    JC

  4. #4
    sasreg Guest
    Thanks for the quick replies guys. Much appreciated.

    I did one injector at a time so I could not stuff up the order - I'm pretty meticulous with things. That's why this has confused me.

    Interia switch is fine, just checked.

    Any more ideas?

  5. #5
    alien's Avatar
    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    Check the injector loom plug where it goes through the head.

    I normaly turn the key to on and listen to the pump when working on the fuel system.
    2-3 times usualy does the trick for me.

    There is a sequence(from memory) for purging the fuel by turning the key on and of 10 times and then starting with full throtle for my D2 TD5.
    I could look it up if you need it, assume it's the same for the Defenders.
    Cheers, Kyle



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  6. #6
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    Remove the hose at the aircleaner and hold a petrol soaked rag in front of the inlet and try to start the car, If it runs, or fires and tries to run, you have a fuel supply problem. If it doesn't show any signs of running, look elsewhere.

    Don't run the engine too long like this - no more than a second or 2.

    Erich

  7. #7
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    Purging may possibly be your problem. I know when I did run mine out of fuel it took about 10-12 runs at purging the fuel to get it to start. Took a little patience and not panicking. It is easy to think the fuel has purged when the fuel pump go's quiet. but it has not and will take multiple goes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bundalene View Post
    Remove the hose at the aircleaner and hold a petrol soaked rag in front of the inlet and try to start the car, If it runs, or fires and tries to run, you have a fuel supply problem. If it doesn't show any signs of running, look elsewhere.

    Don't run the engine too long like this - no more than a second or 2.

    Erich
    Do not do this

  9. #9
    sasreg Guest
    Injector loom is good - all plugged in...

    I have purged, and purged, and purged........ it still will not go.

    Fuel pump sounds good after purging for a while, it stays going for about 15-20 seconds..... but if I try and turn it over, the next time the fuel pump will have a different tone for the first few purges ???

    Could a flooded engine cause this?? Or could it be poorly adjusted rocker adjustments screws (even though I have done it twice now). ??

  10. #10
    alien's Avatar
    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    From the owners book(TD5 Disco).
    "If the tank runs dry refill with minimum of 4.5 ltrs.
    1..Turn off the starter switch and wait for 15 seconds.
    2..Turn the key to position "II" and wait for 30 seconds.
    3..Repeat steps 1 and 2 six times.
    4..After the final 30 second period, fully depress the accelerator pedal.
    5..Keeping the pedal depresed, start cranking the engine.
    6..Continue cranking the engine and as soon as the engine is firing smoothly, ease the accelerator pedal back to approximatley halfway through it's travel, and release the starter key. The engine should now be running.
    7..If the engine fails to start, repeat the process.

    Warning
    The engine must NOT be cranked for more than 20 seconds in any one period.
    If the above procedure is carried out on a vehicle that has not run out of fuel, it will result in the engine flooding with fuel and failing to start."

    You could try the above.
    The ony time I've done it the rig blew a fair bit of black smoke.
    If you have been cycling the key try from step 5.
    Also make sure the battery has over 11.5 volts while cranking or the ECU may shut the fuel supply off.
    Cheers, Kyle



    The Good Oil.
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