Thread: MULGO's PUMA X-Box

Tote,
I am yet to do this - and want to sort the heat shielding from the get-go
My 130 came pre-loved with tonnes of extra heat shielding and gap filling - the only source of heat into the cabin is the bottom of the centre console.
If I fit an exbox I will endeavour to fix this.
Looking at your photos down through the floor, instead of stick on insulation to walls and exbox base, would there be room to fit in place a curved aluminium sheet roughly following the shape of the seat box - but curved with it held off the actual panels with spacers? Would sit below the fuel lines and wiring in your photo.

Im thinking reflective insulation is always going to be better (think exhaust/ turbo heat shields) in this sort of setup. Could always put some foil backed foam in as well to seal up noise and stray heat?

My guess is most of the radiant heat comes from exhaust and the gear bags...
Would be nice to reflect it away and then only have to deal with what can transmit through the heat shield.

S

There would be room to fit a curved heat shield there but I'm not convinced that the heat is all radiant heat, I reckon some of it is hot air. I wrapped the exhaust pipe and that made a significant difference, the stick on shielding should fix the rest I reckon. There are some more details in my build thread.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ld-thread.html

Regards,
Tote

Afternoon,

For those who have installed the Mulgo Ex Box into the 2.2 Puma....I have a Q.

How did you get the power cable for the bass box into the ex box. I'm thinking I'll have to drill a frigging great hole in the wall just above rear footwell to get it up towards the Bass Box.
I don't see how I can get the large plug up through the rubber boot......

Frustrating

Originally Posted by Rolly

Afternoon,

For those who have installed the Mulgo Ex Box into the 2.2 Puma....I have a Q.

How did you get the power cable for the bass box into the ex box. I'm thinking I'll have to drill a frigging great hole in the wall just above rear footwell to get it up towards the Bass Box.
I don't see how I can get the large plug up through the rubber boot......

Frustrating

You have to drill a hole and then you have to lengthen the wires otherwise it wont reach.

I don't recall having any such issues rolly...
If anything, when you move the fuse block into the ex box, you will have an excess of cable. I do recall that there was a bit of wrangling involved with re-routing the wire bundles to make it all sit right, and not chafe against the top of the T-case.

The power feed for the fuse block is straight off the main MEGA fuse on the battery positive terminal. There will be 2 wires at the battery- one which goes to the starter motor (fused @ 500A) and a smaller gauge wire which is attached before the mega fuse, which goes direct to the fuse block.

Yep, it's going to be too short. I've made the cut and tomorrow at Daniel(Mulgo)'s suggestion I'll get some trailer wire(as each wire is different colour) to rejoin and provide the length I need.
Another benefit was I was able Feed the bass box wire into one of the two rubber boots and not drill another hole into the base of the Ex-Box.

Each step I learn a little more.

Silicone spray is your friend too. Helps when cramming those wires in that hole.
For some wires, I fed a coathanger from in the ex box to the undercarriage, and tied / taped off the wires to the coathanger and planety of spray, and pulled it all back thru.

THere are also a few moulded nipples on the big grommets that install into the bottom of the ex box. For smaller wires you can snip an end off and feed wires thru easily.

Thanks Toxic,

Unfortunately it wasn't just the wires I was trying to get through but also the plug....it were mission impossible.
Combined with this there was not enough length for the loom to enter the ex box and reach the bass box. I'll extend it and world is good again.

Cheers