Thread: boost lost???

Originally Posted by uninformed

did you read the entire thread????

no, I opened the thread between harro and disco owner, typed up the reply (as far as I highlighted in blue) and got called away for a while, came back finished it and posted it, by then things had changed. so I edited the list into blue and added the disregard and then answered the question about what parts you should see moving.

you can test the working of the VNT internals by disconnecting the rod, wrapping some medium wire around the pin then pulling and pushing on it with the engine running, if the turbo noise changes and the actuator rod moves to try and adjust what you're doing on the VNT actuator arm then the internals of both the VNT and the actuator are ok.

to recap then...... with 15psi hooked up to the actuator via a air nozzel, with a trigger to progress on and off, the actuator ROD moves up and down. The pin is still located in the end of the actuator rod with its c clip. The PIN however has come out of the little plate that has a corrsponding hole for it. This plate moves up and down fairly easy.

I just put the pin in the plate as best I could and took it for another drive. It held for 1st and 2nd and seemed to make a difference but the pin came out again....that was obvious from the drivers seat. popped the bonet and sure enough. Even with the pin in it the connection feels a little sloppy, but I have no gauge for that.

SO.....im thinking of taking the turbo off and sorting this pin out. I just cant get in there to work on it insitu.

any do's and dont's for turbo remove and replace?

what are the torque values for the turbo to manifold flange bolts?

Unless the pin that connets the actuator rod to the lever that operates the VNT is able to be pushed through the lever and you can see a groove for a c clip or a hole for a split pin I'd agree with Rick and say it was peened.

You may be able to silver solder or braze the pin to the lever. You would still need some access and a torch to achieve that fix otherwise you may have to try for a partial disassembly.

its either peened in place or spot welded as part of the manufactureing process. You might be able to get away with crushing the arm with a pair of vice grips while the pin is in place, if you've got plenty of practice and a jewlers torch you might be able to silver solder it in place by removing the actuator and rod normal solder wont cut it due to the temps involved.

From memory the exhaust manifold bolt torque is about 50-60NM.

im thinking of removing the pin and replacing with a bolt. Buy one long enough with smooth shank and cut to suit. I will just have to check the head clearance on the turbine side.

Rick and The Slug were on the money, the pin was fixed to the plate by being peened or such. Not only has it broken out, it has deformed the hole it passes through in the actuator rod.

When I placed the Turbo on the bench, and since, I have been getting oil dripping from the pressure hose fitting of the actuator

now Im just waiting for my neighbour to come home. He is a Mech pluber and can help me with the welding/brazing/soldering.

I bloody hope this works!

Dave, thanks for the offer to look at it. But there was no way I was driving any distance with it like it is....EGT's just to high etc

I forgot to mention, close/seal/tape off all your hoses, etc.

Think clean, clean, clean.

I forgot to mention, if you are going to silver braze it you'll need a 45% silver rod and good flux as it's steel/steel.
Plumbers normally only use 3% rod for copper/copper, but if you know a fridgey they should have some 45% rod in their truck.

Bronze will work too if you are going to use that to fix the flogged out hole in the actuator rod.