Thread: Cracked chassis defender 130 2010 puma

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Hi azureindi

There is enough evidence here already, that there is a design issue that has to be addressed by Land Rover.

[snip]
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Why would they bother doing that when 127's and 130's have been cracking in the same frigging spots since inception ?

and HCPU's do it too, it isn't just tray backs.

Originally Posted by rick130

Why would they bother doing that when 127's and 130's have been cracking in the same frigging spots since inception ?

and HCPU's do it too, it isn't just tray backs.

Four whole days and no word from LR
If only I had researched more...thanks everyone for the replies
Nice of LR to know about this, but not rectify the problem and when there is an issue show total disregard for the person/family that bought it!

Originally Posted by azureindi

Four whole days and no word from LR
If only I had researched more...thanks everyone for the replies
Nice of LR to know about this, but not rectify the problem and when there is an issue show total disregard for the person/family that bought it!

Don't stress too much, it won't snap in half and totally fail, it just ****es me off that land Rover have never addressed the issue properly.

Mines still cracked after ten years and a constant GVM of 3000kg and the cracks have never propagated any further than they were ten years ago.

Is it possible to drill a hole at the end of the crack?

Originally Posted by uninformed

Is it possible to drill a hole at the end of the crack?

It's just the chassis structure stress releiving itself, just like my firewall does at the 'hip'. i've welded it numerous times and it just cracks again just above or below the weld.
Bill.

109" chassis are known for cracking as well. There's a spot where on the outsides of the rails there are two outriggers, (holding up the front of the backbody, if I remember it right), and holding the rails together, just behind these outriggers but on the insides of the rails, is a crossmember. This leaves a couple of inches of chassis rail that can't flex with the outrigger on one side and the crossmember on the other. So it's not new.

Anyway, you should try getting very tough very quickly with the dealer because as long as you put up with the crap, they'll dish it out. I've learned from various disputes that you need as much evidence as you can possible record, no matter how inconsequential it may seem, and you need to log everything that happens as well. You also need to very clearly spell out what is wrong and what you want done about it, without getting carried away at all. (Always keep your cool!) Give them a certain time to fix it, then go above their heads and keep at those people constantly. You don't need to be aggro at all, just calm, reasonable, and clearly not about to give up.

It's quite a skill and they should teach it in schools! (Er, on second thought, maybe not!)

Ring them and ask when will the refund be deposited in your account as the vehicle is clearly not fit for the purpose they sold it to you for. This will either get them moving or put them totaly off side.
Should have said if the dealer is being reasonable then so should you. Just guessing that they are being dificult.

Tell them to just plate it up and give it back to you - it's not a big deal. I had a trayback 110 that did the same. I just tacked it up but plating it is obviously better.