Thread: Defender 110 wheel dimensions

Just make sure whoever does the job has their head around how the Landie wheels work, if you're gonna run alloys then they need a centre spigot to locate on, the wheel nuts just hold them on and transfer the torque, there is no locking taper, without the centre spigot the wheel will vibrate and eventually shear off the studs when sitting on highway speeds, not sure on the size of this spigot as dad has only doen the conversions on Range Rovers (sports and vogues) and Disco 2's, they all locate in the same fashion but with varying spigot sizes and PCD's, the best way to make the spigot is to machine the hub outer bearing step (???) into a level shape (get rid of the taper on the hub) then machining a collar which is a press on fit to bring the locating surface out to the wheel spigot size, on the ones dad has done he actually needed to space the hubs out to clear the alloys otherwise they would fowl on the centre cap flange thingo of the alloys, he just gets longer studs. If you are running steel wheels they just locate on the wheel nut tapers so no need for a centre spigot on the trailer, i know you're in the NT but if you have any questions or have any trouble getting them done properly shoot me a PM and dad could probably do the hubs and then ship them to you, all the people's he did were his own Range Rover and LR customers, he just did them in our home workshop, Graeme Cooper's are now referring people to him for the job aswell.

Cheers
Will

P.S. if you can't find out what diameter the spigot is for alloys, pull a wheel off the Deefer and measure it with a pair of verniers, if you can't do that i could pull a wheel of my D1 and measure it

As for your "centre ball size" i think you mean to say "centre bore" size, this is the size in the wheel that fits over the hub or spigot, which is what they need to locate on, make sure they know that the wheel HAS to locate on a spigot if it is alloy, it can't just fit over, it has to locate properly (alloys anyway)

Originally Posted by tb051441

On that steel spare is stamped 61/2J x 16 x 20.6 ( the first number is 6 and a half). Are they relevant to anything the manufacturer might need?

6-1/2" rim width
J is the bead style
16" diameter rim
20.6mm offset (although that's a new one to me. Generally Defender rims were 33mm offset)

I just had a Van built with 2000kg Hubs & 12" Drums to suit Defender
They told me that the offset positioning for the Stub Axles was the same as they use for Toyota Prado. PCD is 6.5″ (5/8″ studs)

A few trailer Part manufacturers supply the hubs and brake drums to suit the Landrover Stud Pattern, getting Van builders to use them is another matter.

Center size won't matter as the biggest hubs are smaller than the wheel centre hole, (from a previous comment about alloys not having a taper on the nuts you will have to use steel wheels)

Originally Posted by p38arover

6-1/2" rim width
20.6mm offset (although that's a new one to me. Generally Defender rims were 33mm offset)

130 / Wolf rims (pictured) are 20.6mm offset

Originally Posted by goingbush

I just had a Van built with 2000kg Hubs & 12" Drums to suit Defender
They told me that the offset positioning for the Stub Axles was the same as they use for Toyota Prado. PCD is 6.5″ (5/8″ studs)

A few trailer Part manufacturers supply the hubs and brake drums to suit the Landrover Stud Pattern, getting Van builders to use them is another matter.

Center size won't matter as the biggest hubs are smaller than the wheel centre hole, (from a previous comment about alloys not having a taper on the nuts you will have to use steel wheels)

130 / Wolf rims (pictured) are 20.6mm offset

That set-up going bush has is the best IMO, the 12" drums and the big bearings on both sides of the hubs seem bullet proof if greased properly, it will be a lot cheaper to set up for steel wheels, i recommend that, i think one conversion for a kimberly kamper cost over $700 just in parts to do properly (for RRS). Any good machine shop should be able to drill the drums, but they need counterboring if you have electric brakes which can be a PITA. As i said before the allys get very complicated and you have to know whats going on, the steels will fit over any hub you can get for a normal trailer.

Cheers
Will

Thanks. Another camper manufacturer did state that they would have to use steel wheels. I have alloys on the Defender but the second spare is steel, so one of each and a puncture repair kit should probably cover nearly all situations.

Trevor

Originally Posted by goingbush

I just had a Van built with 2000kg Hubs & 12" Drums to suit Defender
They told me that the offset positioning for the Stub Axles was the same as they use for Toyota Prado. PCD is 6.5″ (5/8″ studs)

A few trailer Part manufacturers supply the hubs and brake drums to suit the Landrover Stud Pattern, getting Van builders to use them is another matter.

Center size won't matter as the biggest hubs are smaller than the wheel centre hole, (from a previous comment about alloys not having a taper on the nuts you will have to use steel wheels)

130 / Wolf rims (pictured) are 20.6mm offset

In theory, there are trailer hubs made to fit LR rims (I have a set) but getting them is another matter. I wonder what would happen if one ordered by Part No., not saying Land Rover?

AL-KO list them in their catalogue http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-techn.../trailer-hubs/

PART NO MAXIMUM CAPACITY PER PAIR OF HUBS WITH LARGEST BEARING AVAILABLE
................................BEARING TYPES THAT CAN BE FITTED

443060 1450 kg Slimline 215mm 105mm Range Rover / LandRover Defender 6.5″ PCD (5/8″

443055 1450 kg Slimline 215mm 105mm Land Rover 5 x 6.5″ PCD

443230 1500 kg 1.5 tonne 205mm 105.5mm Land Rover/Defender 5 x 6.5″ PCD

444230 2000 kg 2 tonne 205mm 105.5mm Land Rover/Defender 5 x 6.5″ PCD

445220 3000 kg 3 tonne 205mm 105.5mm Land Rover 5 x 6.5″ PCD

445230 3000 kg 3 tonne 205mm 105.5mm Land Rover/Defender 5 x 6.5″ PCD

you could go these and get them drilled and fitted with LR studs:

443050 1450 kg Slimline 215mm 105mm Undrilled

443100 1500 kg 1.5 tonne 205mm 105.5mm Undrilled

444100 2000 kg 2 tonne 205mm 105.5mm Undrilled

445100 3000 kg 3 tonne 205mm 105.5mm Undrilled

The other issue is that the hub manufacturers seem to only use non-metric studs so you can't use LR wheel nuts.

Thanks for the info on the Wolf rims. I should have picked up on the 6½" inches rim width.

Originally Posted by p38arover

The other issue is that the hub manufacturers seem to only use non-metric studs so you can't use LR wheel nuts.

The hub manufacturers will put in 'holden' wheel studs, they will need to be re-drilled and have Land Rover studs put in, you can get them after-market, but it needs to be done, the holden nuts won't hold the LR wheels on very well, IMO you'd be best to run steels, if push comes to shove you can run an alloy spare in place the steels for a short period of time to 'get you home' but it will need the wheel nuts done up really tight, my dune buggy trailer is like this with the D2 wheels, but you need to carry a spare set of nuts for the alloys.