Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 41

Thread: Clutch Master Cylinder - long term solution?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Cooroy, QLD
    Posts
    1,396
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Clutch Master Cylinder - long term solution?

    Hey all,

    I'm on my 3rd clutch master cylinder in a year. Admittedly the one on there now was a cheap trailer one - bought in the sticks on a weekend as a temporary fix to get me home - it lasted about a week.

    What's the go for a long term solution to the obvious rubbish standard of the OEM part? I know that idea is out of vogue these days, but does someone make a decent rebuild kit for them? Or is there a particular brand of replacement that is superior?

    I do a lot of k's all over the state, so I need it to work and keep working.

    Cheers,

    Adam

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,484
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you buy a genuine or proper OE part you'll have no problems.

    Are you using the correct fluid?
    Is it adjusted correctly and bled properly?

    R
    J

    Sent using Forum Runner
    Regards,
    Jon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,484
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Adam,
    If your buying genuine or OE you shouldn't have a problem.

    Is the clutch adjusted correctly?
    Are you using the correct fluid?
    Do you put new fluid in with each unit or just top up? It should be new to make sure it's clean.

    Are you sure you are receiving what you've ordered, ie OE?

    R
    Jon

    Sent using Forum Runner
    Regards,
    Jon

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Douglas Park, NSW
    Posts
    9,347
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Genuine or non-genuine doesn't seem to matter from what I've seen.



    I think stainless sleeving would be the best long term solution.
    Scott

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,795
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    Genuine or non-genuine doesn't seem to matter from what I've seen.
    I think stainless sleeving would be the best long term solution.

    I'd agree, stainless steel sleeving is be the best option.

    When you bleed the clutch after a year or so the fluid is black, this from the aluminium wearing away.

    Best to buy a new one and get it sleeved before fitting. Fred Smith Automotive in Bayswater VIC carries them in stock already sleeved but it would probably be cheaper for you to source one and go to your local brake joint and organise the sleeving.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    6,568
    Total Downloaded
    0
    After three Landcruisers with never a clutch hydraulic problem I know what I'll be doing when my 110 (which as already been re-hydrauliced) needs another Clutch M/C . Landcruiser FJ40 or FJ 60 Master Cylinder is looking good.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,795
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    After three Landcruisers with never a clutch hydraulic problem I know what I'll be doing when my 110 (which as already been re-hydrauliced) needs another Clutch M/C . Landcruiser FJ40 or FJ 60 Master Cylinder is looking good.
    Out of interest, are the bodies of the Landcruiser master cylinders steel or aluminium ?


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    6,568
    Total Downloaded
    0
    They are Steel,

    The mounting bolt holes are offset so you need to remove the pedal box & drill new holes, but this will be a one off job, Should last for ever as long as you flush the fluid every 100,000 klm or so. (use Dot 3 Fluid)


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Camp Hill Queensland
    Posts
    775
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I feel your pain. Last saturday I replaced my master after only having it sleeved and rebuilt by BHSS in September. Probably only 5000k in that period.

    I'm picking up another sleeved and rebuilt one today so I'll always have another sleeved one ready to drop in.

    I'm getting too practiced in replacing them and my wife at helping me bleed them.

    I've been careful with adjusting the correct pedal height to spec and lubricating the plunger with fluid during assembly. I'm using Super DOT4 fluid.

    The sleeved ones don't leak black fluid like the unsleeved ones used to.

    Ideas anyone ?
    '95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
    '85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
    '76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Yarrawonga, Vic
    Posts
    6,568
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by isuzu110 View Post
    I feel your pain. Last saturday I replaced my master after only having it sleeved and rebuilt by BHSS in September. Probably only 5000k in that period.

    I'm picking up another sleeved and rebuilt one today so I'll always have another sleeved one ready to drop in.

    I'm getting too practiced in replacing them and my wife at helping me bleed them.

    I've been careful with adjusting the correct pedal height to spec and lubricating the plunger with fluid during assembly. I'm using Super DOT4 fluid.

    The sleeved ones don't leak black fluid like the unsleeved ones used to.

    Ideas anyone ?
    Toyota recommend Dot3 for 80 & 100 series when I had them & lots of reports of ABS failures from using Dot4 , Toyota Genuine Fluid is Dot3 .

    Just an Idea but worth trying Dot3 in your clutch, Hard to find on the shelves at auto parts suppliers now, but easier just to go to your local Toyota dealer & get a bottle of gen-u-ine Toyota Brake Fluid.

    check this out
    DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids

Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!