If you buy a genuine or proper OE part you'll have no problems.
Are you using the correct fluid?
Is it adjusted correctly and bled properly?
R
J
Sent using Forum Runner
Hey all,
I'm on my 3rd clutch master cylinder in a year. Admittedly the one on there now was a cheap trailer one - bought in the sticks on a weekend as a temporary fix to get me home - it lasted about a week.
What's the go for a long term solution to the obvious rubbish standard of the OEM part? I know that idea is out of vogue these days, but does someone make a decent rebuild kit for them? Or is there a particular brand of replacement that is superior?
I do a lot of k's all over the state, so I need it to work and keep working.
Cheers,
Adam
If you buy a genuine or proper OE part you'll have no problems.
Are you using the correct fluid?
Is it adjusted correctly and bled properly?
R
J
Sent using Forum Runner
Regards,
Jon
Adam,
If your buying genuine or OE you shouldn't have a problem.
Is the clutch adjusted correctly?
Are you using the correct fluid?
Do you put new fluid in with each unit or just top up? It should be new to make sure it's clean.
Are you sure you are receiving what you've ordered, ie OE?
R
Jon
Sent using Forum Runner
Regards,
Jon
Genuine or non-genuine doesn't seem to matter from what I've seen.
I think stainless sleeving would be the best long term solution.
Scott
I'd agree, stainless steel sleeving is be the best option.
When you bleed the clutch after a year or so the fluid is black, this from the aluminium wearing away.
Best to buy a new one and get it sleeved before fitting. Fred Smith Automotive in Bayswater VIC carries them in stock already sleeved but it would probably be cheaper for you to source one and go to your local brake joint and organise the sleeving.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
After three Landcruisers with never a clutch hydraulic problem I know what I'll be doing when my 110 (which as already been re-hydrauliced) needs another Clutch M/C . Landcruiser FJ40 or FJ 60 Master Cylinder is looking good.
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
They are Steel,
The mounting bolt holes are offset so you need to remove the pedal box & drill new holes, but this will be a one off job, Should last for ever as long as you flush the fluid every 100,000 klm or so. (use Dot 3 Fluid)

I feel your pain. Last saturday I replaced my master after only having it sleeved and rebuilt by BHSS in September. Probably only 5000k in that period.
I'm picking up another sleeved and rebuilt one today so I'll always have another sleeved one ready to drop in.
I'm getting too practiced in replacing them and my wife at helping me bleed them.
I've been careful with adjusting the correct pedal height to spec and lubricating the plunger with fluid during assembly. I'm using Super DOT4 fluid.
The sleeved ones don't leak black fluid like the unsleeved ones used to.
Ideas anyone ?
'95 110 300TDI, F&R ARB Lockers, Twine Shower, Aux Sill Tank, Snorkel, Cargo barrier, 9 seats, swingaway wheel carrier, MadMan EMS2
'85 110 Isuzu NA 4BE1 3.6l Diesel, 0.996 LT-95, Rear Maxi (SOLD)
'76 SIII 109" Nissan ED33 5-SP Nissan GBox (SOLD)
Toyota recommend Dot3 for 80 & 100 series when I had them & lots of reports of ABS failures from using Dot4 , Toyota Genuine Fluid is Dot3 .
Just an Idea but worth trying Dot3 in your clutch, Hard to find on the shelves at auto parts suppliers now, but easier just to go to your local Toyota dealer & get a bottle of gen-u-ine Toyota Brake Fluid.
check this out
DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids
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