Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 68

Thread: Post-recovery rapid battery drain

  1. 22nd June 2012, 03:48 PM #21
    mattyg's Avatar
    mattyg
    mattyg is offline Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Wangaratta
    Posts
    370
    Total Downloaded
    0
    hey tim, those voltages seem to be heaps better - 14.49 when running and 13ish when not seems perfect. keep checking periodically though.

    still cant see how you were getting 20V????!!!!

    I dont know how those old solinoids work but it might be worth a look. maybe getting it out and checking the switching on a test bench.

    To test the trailer aux, google a 'pinout' of a trailer socket and continuity test the AUX pin to ground/chassis. You should have High resistance: OL or Mohms or Kohms.

    Matt
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  2. 22nd June 2012, 03:48 PM #22
    THE BOOGER's Avatar
    THE BOOGER
    THE BOOGER is offline AT REST
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    wetherill park
    Posts
    2,600
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Those are much better voltages now test your solenoid to se if it is open and closed when it should be or if it has shorted you may have given it a heart attack when the car went over
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  3. 22nd June 2012, 04:26 PM #23
    timbo's Avatar
    timbo
    timbo is offline Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    356
    Total Downloaded
    0
    How do I go about testing a solenoid?? I'm learning all this as I go...
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  4. 22nd June 2012, 04:29 PM #24
    timbo's Avatar
    timbo
    timbo is offline Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    356
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Surely if it doesn't drain overnight, then it's not my solenoid, it's whatever was on the circuit that I pulled the 60A fuse out of?
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  5. 22nd June 2012, 04:39 PM #25
    jazzaD1's Avatar
    jazzaD1
    jazzaD1 is offline Master Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Ballarat, Victoria
    Posts
    766
    Total Downloaded
    0
    physically follow the wiring then! wire capable of carrying 60A is going to stick out from the factory harness
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  6. 22nd June 2012, 04:40 PM #26
    THE BOOGER's Avatar
    THE BOOGER
    THE BOOGER is offline AT REST
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    wetherill park
    Posts
    2,600
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Test the soleniod by puting a meter across the main terminals (the ones the battery connects to) and puting power to the smaller terminals and see you should get 0 ohms when no power and 1.00 or ol when powered you should also hear and feel the soleniod opening and closing as power is put to it

    does yours look like this

    DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR SOLENOID - EASY TO DIY 100AMP ABR | eBay
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  7. 22nd June 2012, 04:43 PM #27
    timbo's Avatar
    timbo
    timbo is offline Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    356
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Looks similar. Not sure if it's an exact match though. I do hear the solenoid click when I hook up one of the batteries. Could it still do that if it was buggered?
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  8. 22nd June 2012, 04:43 PM #28
    mattyg's Avatar
    mattyg
    mattyg is offline Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Wangaratta
    Posts
    370
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think the concerns with the solinoid are more to do with the higher voltages you were getting.

    I'm sure that we've nailed the excessive current draw to whatever is connected to that fuse. Just a matter of finding what that circuit does. ideas anyone? We have looked at the circuit diagram in the workshop manual but it isn't clear to me. Test the trailer socket Tim.

    I don't know how those solinoids operate so that's why I would pull it out of the car and play with it. If anyone has a link or instructions on how they work it would be great.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  9. 22nd June 2012, 04:46 PM #29
    timbo's Avatar
    timbo
    timbo is offline Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    356
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Wish I didn't have work tonight. Won't be able to look at the car again until tomorrow.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
  10. 22nd June 2012, 06:21 PM #30
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
    Blknight.aus is offline RoverLord Vendor
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    change the battery in your multimeter and put it up against a known reference voltage.

    19v is bad...

    way too high for 12V systems way too low for 24V.


    I cant work out which sequence youve used to number the fuses but heres the break out.
    engingbayfuse.jpg
    The engine bay fusable links
    pasfuse1.jpg
    psfuse2.jpg
    the fuse box in the firewall cover.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
    Reply With Quote Reply With Quote
Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
« Help: Defender Folding rear seats | Defender diff breathers »

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Forum Rules

Search AULRO.com ONLY!
 Search All the Web!