Thread: Hot Puma

Oh, they start so nice and clean and white and.......

Hi Dockstrada,
So under the bulge is a vibration/expansion join?
If so shouldn't that be left unwrapped?

Originally Posted by Tomo

Hi Dockstrada,
So under the bulge is a vibration/expansion join?
If so shouldn't that be left unwrapped?

If there was lots of flex yes but for the minimal vibration and movement in that area and taking into account that the next fixing point is rubber mounted down by the bottom flange over 1mtr away the exhaust sort of shares the flex over the full length so I thought I would pot luck it, hence the 2 straps used, If all fails ill just trim it.

I expect it will be ok.

It certainly makes a huge difference for heat transfer.

Many thanks, Drover.

I've wrapped the 1st half of the exhaust pipe(from turbo to muffler) using the wrap mentioned in this thread, waiting for summer heat to experience the difference.

Question, do I have to wrap the rest of the pipe?

BTW, the wrap is not itchy but tingling to me

Hi Labrado,

The flex as Dock has described is not an issue, but abnormal flex possibly caused by pressure on the remainder of the pipe could cause excessive flex and result in the need to trim.

For this reason I wrapped mine in 3 segments. Turbo to flex joint, flex joint alone, flex joint to remaining pipe..

I think that the engine pipe is sffecient given the cost of the ceramic wrap, but if temps are up on rear floor go for it.....

The rear floor on my 110 Puma does indeed get quite hot!

Amazing how little has changed- I remember leaving a set of Stanley screwdrivers under the passenger seat in my series 3 shorty about 26 years ago, the handles all melted!
The bloke I've just bought my 130 from has covered part of the floor in fancy insulating sheet stuff, looks like attacking the heat at the source as in this thread should be far more effective.

Removal of the cat downpipe may not be as straight forward on some Defenders, especially when the kms get up a bit. Mine has over 200,000 km, and the down pipe studs did not drop free of the turbo outlet flange...about 15mm short.

Using a suitable piece of hardwood, I had to jack under the TH engine mount until the studs cleared the turbo flange...gently! Feeling the moment to not jack to far. It was not enough to jack under the transmission flange. Needed to
tilt it a little.

Hope that makes it easier for the next person. Caused me a bit of a problem, and thought I should have been moved to a slower group for a while there.