Reply With QuoteI would think traxide is a good start.
Talk (send a PM) to Drivesafe - he knows his stuff.
Master
SupporterI’m after some recommendations for a simple dual-battery kit for running a fridge for daytrips/weekend trips plus the odd camp light or two. Not an expedition set-up. There’s lots of dual-battery threads but I’m still a little confused as to what people consider a reliable but ‘no frills’ set-up.
My previous camping vehicle (a VW kombi) had a deep cycle battery which was connected in parallel to the main battery using a $20 fused relay, activated off a 12v signal from the engine generator (dynamo). It was crude, but this is how it seems to be done and served our purposes for many years in UK and Aus. The charging system (engine generator) wasn’t really up to the job though and we had a few trips with less than good charge, the battery eventually died and I vowed to get a better set-up next time…
Now I’m the new owner of a 2010 defender 110 with (I presume) a decent charging system, I plan on installing a deep cycle battery underneath the passenger seat.
I’m seeing installation kits for $100 and anything up to $500 all claiming certain amounts of protection, visual battery monitors, etc. What do people recommend is actually required, and what is a good kit for a basic but robust set-up that can be easily installed by an electrical simpleton (i.e. me)?
Sorry if this has been asked many times before
Sam
ForumSage
I would think traxide is a good start.
Talk (send a PM) to Drivesafe - he knows his stuff.
TopicToaster
SubscriberI'm very happy with my Traxide SC80 controller. It works well with no drama's.
Its in an older 110, but mainly just the fridge running off the aux battery.
Steve
Master
SupporterGood link, thanks
I notice this one drains the main vehicle battery (down to a safe level) as well as the leisure battery(s) - is that an issue?
I was expecting to use the leisure battery(s) only when camped
Swaggie
no issue at all, tim's system taps into the start battery to better utilise its excess power (over and above the starting requirement). its seperates the two when the start battery drops to just above the required voltage to start the car.........then you are operating just on your leisure batteryOriginally Posted by Samblers
its worked well for me, i run one sometimes two fridge and a light or two...........my previous setup was a relay similar to what you are used to
OldBushie
I have just had these same concerns myself, and then said discussion/advice from Drivesafe.
On his advice, as soon as I can afford it, as in both his system and the battery, I'll be doing it.
Although my rig needs to be able to keep us good for lengths of time out on our own, a tried and proven setup is three quarters of the battle. Also, with Drivesafe being on here, and various others being on here with his setup, if/when something should go wrong (God forbid), there's plenty of help here.
Get a Traxide system and a Optima D34 yellow top and never have to think about it again.
Master
SupporterI think you guys sold me on Traxide.
Have been reading for a while now... seems I may have a battle with the battery tray/ floor ahead of me... which i'd prefer not to modify.
Does the Optima require any tray mods and is this (55Ah) about the largest you can get in without any mods? Was hoping for a little larger ...
Mines just jammed in there at the moment (an has been with no dramas for over a year) - you can get a Pirhana tray to suite this set up, but I'm contemplating eith replacing the standard battery with two more Optimas or getting a D44 battery tray and two 68ah Odyssey PC1500s.I think you guys sold me on Traxide.
Have been reading for a while now
Does the Optima require any tray mods and is this (55Ah) about the largest you can get in without any mods? Was hoping for a little larger ...
How much power do you need - you should get about 45ah out of the Optima and something in the region of 15-20ah from the main using the Traxide set up. Given that a fridge pulls around 0.8ah, this set up gets me through a w/e no dramas.
Wizard
alternator activated relay works fine for me. Isolated aux battery when switched off, both charge well with engine running.
Perhaps the kombi had a poor alternator or odd/old batteries?
I run run a matched pair of 75aH batteries driven by a standard 70amp alternator - not fancy batteries and they have been good for three years.
Only down side is no cut off when the AUX battery gets low - it can drain all the way down which will kill a batteries storage capacity.
When I need new batteries I may add another relay to cut the power take off from the AUX when battery is low voltage.. triggered by some simple circuit.
I like knowing my starter is completely isolated and fully charged, never know when you may need to crank the crap out of it!
M.
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