Not lucky, I did my homework and went in fully informed.
I frequent a UK forum for this particular car and they still are hell-bent over there on selecting diesel/petrol based on mileage per year. When IMO it should be selected on miles per journey.
Under 20km per journey, buy a petrol. Diesels regardless of DPF or not hate short, cold running. Diesels with a DPF just hate it more.
The DPF in my car has at least three regeneration modes. Passive is in normal use where it just drops boost to raise exhaust temps and let the DPF burn itself clean.
Active is where it retards injection timing as well, commonrail engines can also do a post combustion injection to add extra fuel to the exhaust fire. If you trigger these on a cold engine or at low load then I can see diesel getting into the sump.
Forced is when the vehicle is parked outside, diagnostics plugged in and it runs high idle with no boost and post injection for enough time to try and burn the DPF clear. This is what the dealer does if your DPF light comes on.
Diagnostics show my DPF is still in excellent health at ~90,000km and at current rates would survive well past 300,000km.
But those who get a smokey performance remap can kill a DPF straight away. Forums are full of those people.
I went the other way, I got a custom map done which shut down EGR (less soot), advancing injection timing and raised torque limiters without raising boost or fuel beyond stock limits. Essentially turning the flat spot on the torque curve into a smooth upward peak. Saving me almost 1 litre/100km, improving drivability and further protecting the DPF.
If an engine can be remapped, then the DPF can be mapped out of it just as easily. Those who try things like replacing the DPF with straight pipe or plug in emulators cause a few more problems.
Those periodic passive regenerations will put white smoke out the back of a vehicle without a working DPF.
Do it properly, get it mapped out if you want to remove one.





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