Thread: Disabling the weird Puma revvy thing.

If I try and shift normally which the car seems to think is too fast it clunks.

I found that shifting slightly slower helps. Also, it clunks when I depress the clutch pedal all the way. mine seems to bite at the top of the pedal stroke so now I only step on it slightly enough to get it out of gear and into the next. no clunks and smooth shifting. but 1st to 2nd is a bit harder.

But then I shift at 2000rpm anyway. But try pressing the clutch less.

All I want is to be able to control the revs with my right foot. It shouldn't be too much to ask.

the pedal position wherein nothing happens too is quite annoying. its so jerky if youre staying in first gear. its like it jumps to 30% throttle instead of gradual

Originally Posted by LoveB

the pedal position wherein nothing happens too is quite annoying. its so jerky if youre staying in first gear. its like it jumps to 30% throttle instead of gradual

Yes. So then to avoid the first gear jerks you change up with a clunk clunk as it revs just when you didn't need it to.

I would just like to know why they got rid of a $5 accelerator cable.......to use instead $1000 worth of electronics to do the same job..........

It's not just on land rovers.......it's all cars these days.......

If I just let the 130 run on idle it runs crawls quite smoothly, but if I use the accelerator pedal it often goes into a spasm at low speed. Changing into second sometimes ends up as a kangaroo. The only solution is to release the clutch, back off and try again. This can happen on the hard but is mostly in the rough when you are getting your foot thrown around a bit.

Is it the operator? Seems like from what ive read here we are all crap drivers?
I had aTD5 Disco2 with FBW throttle and it didnt jerk around
.
I drive a rough track a couple of times a week and my old TDi300 Def does it comfortably in just 2nd gear, the Puma needs first 2nd and 3rd to do the same job. Almost seems like there is a dead spot around 1500

I wonder if this remapping solution would help
Diesel performance tuning and economy remap chip tuning for Landrover Defender Discovery TD5 Puma TDV6 TDV8

RE the jerking at low speed. My 2.4 MY09 used to do this - and it was due to a semi faulty (sticky) EGR valve. Symptoms included a flat spot at around 1500rpm, and a neck snapping kangaroo hop in low range. Finally after a few years the valve died, new valve - all jerkiness gone, was like a new car. Before I traded that POS I was considering on of those no EGR remaps. But final solution was to trade it in on new one. The 2.2 seems to be a lot better in this area, it's a lot smoother.

Apparently - You can remove the throttle hold on gear change by shorting out the clutch pedal switch. I have not done this on the PUMA, and probable won't. But I just did the clutch pedal switch mod on the TD5 and it's made a world of differences to drivability. (The mod is different on the td5, you just disconnect the switch.). No more ECU playing with the throttle during gear change, just nice instant power.

Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

RE the jerking at low speed. My 2.4 MY09 used to do this - and it was due to a semi faulty (sticky) EGR valve. Symptoms included a flat spot at around 1500rpm, and a neck snapping kangaroo hop in low range. Finally after a few years the valve died, new valve - all jerkiness gone, was like a new car. Before I traded that POS I was considering on of those no EGR remaps. But final solution was to trade it in on new one. The 2.2 seems to be a lot better in this area, it's a lot smoother.

Apparently - You can remove the throttle hold on gear change by shorting out the clutch pedal switch. I have not done this on the PUMA, and probable won't. But I just did the clutch pedal switch mod on the TD5 and it's made a world of differences to drivability. (The mod is different on the td5, you just disconnect the switch.). No more ECU playing with the throttle during gear change, just nice instant power.

OK, so just pulling the plug on a puma doesn't work?