Thread: Fitting out the back of a 90.

Originally Posted by Cracka

G'day Mike

Nice job on the storage solution. Just wondering, what thickness ply did you use for the 'bottom' deck across the wheel boxes?

I'm looking at getting 4 Wolf Boxes, have been umming and raring over what to get and think that with these I can utilise the inside space of the box and also the fact that they pack tight together I can get the most for my real estate so to speak.

I realise I will need a vertical support for the middle of the span. I tried it with some 12mm ply I had in the shed but there is still too much flex between that support and the support on the wheel box. Not sure whether to go 15 or 17mm, I don't want to add too much unnecessary weight but then I need the support for loading up on top of it. I will check with Loubrey if he reads this and see what he used as well.

Thanks

Mick

I havn't read teh whole thread yet but could you not use an ali frame? or cut a strip of ply and glue/screw it to the edges of the ply to add stiffnes?

G'day bruiser,

I didn't want to go the frame route as the wolf boxes are already 240mm high so I'm already having to pack between the underside of the 'top deck' and the top of the wheel boxes by about 35mm already to get clearance for the boxes.

It will be ok at the front end and it will be supported by the end wall, its just the rear end that's the issue.

Mick

Yea I can understand... don't want to get any thicker than you need to.

Maybe a slightly thicker ply, with as many 'plys' as you can get for added strength?

If I ever get my 90 back to finish my draws I started on.

I am using 18mm form ply as a 'top deck' that is in 2 pieces (which I am considering tossing in the bin and cutting again as I have a better plan in my head now)

then I have 2 2440x1220 sheets of 12mm structural ply to build the draw from,

my idea is to build a 12mm ply draw with pre fitted sections (to aid int eh strength of the 12mm box and to help organisation) use 12mm uprights on each side of the draw to which my slides will be mounted, a 12mm base on the floor of the cab, to help strengthen things and with noise insulation :P

build a speaker box at the front behind the seats. wrap it all in maring carpet and donskies!

to mount to the car I currently have bolts holding the 'top deck' down in the old seat belt bolt holes, also I would bolt the lower section in using he old seat mounting bolts, underneath the wood all round will be carpet underlay/foam.

Leroy

G'day Leroy,

Is the 90 still off the road?

12mm will be plenty strong enough for the drawer I reckon, I see Drifta use 12mm for their whole carcass and drawers. They use marine ply, I'm not sure though if it is any 'stiffer' than normal structural CD ply. I rang Gunnersons Timber, who supply Mitre 10 timber, my only supplier here, they had no bloody idea, don't you just love it when companies supplying goods don't know anything about their product grrrrrrr.

Yes I'm looking at minimum 15mm at this stage for the top deck and as you, 12 mm for the side pieces, front and middle support with a 6mm base.

I ordered 4 wolf boxes from Mulgo this morning and 3 lengths of the cargo tie down rail I'm going to put them running front to back, 1 on each side and then 1 roughly 400mm from the passenger side. My fridge will go hard to the left between those rails (strapped down) all the way to the back,I can still access it and the wife will be able to use the folding step. The 4 boxes will go underneath, not sure yet whether I'll carpet that section or use thin rubber. I'll wait till I get the boxes, load one up and do a couple of tests to see what they move like on each material. Can you tell I've got too much time on my hands

Between the other 2 rails I will be able to fit 2 x 400mm wide (roughly) boxes side by side and strap them down. I've been playing with those tuffman boxes from bunnings for the top deck set out.

The space in front of all of this I will have a number of strapping options using the tracks.

Do you know how much the 19mm weighed do you? I weighed a piece of 12mm structural ply 1 square metre was just on 6 kg. If you have a bit laying around do you think you could throw it on a scale?

I also was going to use the seat pivot mounting points for bolting down.

Mick

I know a guy who used to work in a saw mill, he happened to work on the ply section (was a few years ago but I wouldn't think anything would change... heck it's only ply). Anyway he said that the ONLY difference between marine and general use ply is the glue they use. General purpose gets aquadhere type stuff and the marine grade gets some fancy water proof glue.

There will be no significant difference in strength, rigidity, etc.

O the other difference which I'm sure your awaire of is the price

Yep, I did know the different glue types, exterior grade uses the waterproof glue as well BUT there is a difference say between CD ply and marine (Birch) ply for example, the CD ply will have voids and defects within the ply's (you can see them when you cut into the sheets) which apparently does affect the strength/rigidity whereas marine ply (standardised) has none of these defects.

The number of ply's affect the strength/rigidity as well.

Mick