If you want it to be.
[QUOTE=Toxic_Avenger;2388996]I might be late to the party, but my understanding was that the flow of hot exhaust gases into the mudflap was the cause of the problem... not the mud flap touching the exhaust pipe proper. In other words, heat shields on the pipe itself is not a viable solution.
I've got a brand spankin' pair of flaps to put on my 90, but sitting tight until I can work out a way to make it work long term.
Anyone involved in HSE / OHS would have heard of the heirarchy of control. Basically the order of operations for solving a problem (in the health and safety sphere at least). Same principles apply with other problems too
The key would be to eliminate the cause of the problem to begin with- relocate the exhaust pipe to a side outlet, or remove the mud flap. There may be legal reasons / issues with this, and not really practical - a car cannot run without an exhaust pipe, for example.
Then you could substitute - consider a different mud flap material perhaps?
Engineering controls like heat shields are the next step, keeping hot gases away from the burnie stuff.
As for attaching to the mud flap... probably just some chichago screws
[/QUOTE)
Is this a joke?
If you want it to be.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
I was referring to the OHS induction you just gave.
Jokes aside
I think Your right though, the exhaust gas is doing the damage rather than the heat radiating off the pipe, I suppose an exhaust tip that directs the gas to the side may work although that may push it in the path of the rear tyre instead
Ive been reading this with interest as my rear left flap looks like a dogs chewed it.
The last service I had done at a dealer I got one for free, I suspect they don't give them out anymore unless your under warranty. It was melted altready slightly that afternoon! as I drove 400 or so Ks at 110kph.
Like you said I'm not bothering replacing mine either until a solution arises.
There's an ounce of truth in any joke. OHS aside, it's never worth tackling a simple problem with a $1000 solution. I think that pyramid is a valid way to look at any problem from a design point of view. Solve the root cause first, then move onto more intricate tomfoolery thereafter.
Re-routing the exhaust would be a $100 job tops if you had to pay for it, but again, take the risk with the legal side.
Compared to yearly replacement of mud flaps at $300 a pop, there needs to be a better way.
Unless you're doing 110km/h in reverse, having the exhaust exit the vehicle on the passenger side after the rear tyre should never be a problem.
I was considering making some stainless steel saddles which went around the aperture of the mud flap, and securing some stainless sheet and a layer of kevlar between it and the mud flap. But once again, a lot of stuffing around for something that will probably look like arse when done anyway.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Yes, it is the hot exhaust gas exiting onto the rubber mudflap which is the problem.
I was thinking along the lines of what you've described in your last para,...done right, it would look ok,....but as I've said before, I'm mechanically useless, so it'd be out of the question for me to fabricate something like that.
Another thought I had was to attach a spring loaded wire to the mudflap, just under the exhaust, & attach this by wire etc to the body,...this would stop the flap from bending up in the "draft", and having the spring in the line, would also enable it to "give" should it hit an object?
Pickles.
I ultimately want to go 'quick release' on my rear flaps, as I've pulled 2 of them off while offroad. That will mitigate the potential for damage in that activity, but on the other hand, out where I live, you can go for a drive, and then sit on 100-110km/h for hours on end, so ensuring that I'm legal on road, and not likely to damage the mud flap is another concern.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
I had the same problem. Bought a new mudflap and cut a piece of 2mm checker plate and fixed it with 8mm domed top allen head nuts and wing nuts with split washers. The checker plate can be removed when off road and easily replaced when back on the freeway before heading home.
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Last edited by Shatkins; 23rd October 2015 at 09:39 AM. Reason: having trouble seeing pictures
That does look sharp! (in a good / classy way, not an 'oh crap, just lost a finger' way)
I thought of getting some stainless bent / welded to line the opening, but yours is indeed an elegant solution.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Here's my solution. It's a saddle that can be bolted to the opening on the mud flap and insulated with a fibreglass material if needed. It is also semi-rigid, so should help reduce the mud flap flex at speed.
Only time will tell whether it works sufficiently!
More info in my build thread here
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-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
To the best of my knowledge, this issue has not been satisfactorily resolved, as yet.
What about some form of self adhesive heat shielding that would stick to rubber?...Is there such a product,...it would of course have to be able to be folded over the edge of the exhaust cut-out.
Has anyone seen such a product?
Pickles.
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