Thread: sourcing electric brake hubs - defender pattern

for trailer hubs i always search for Redbacks posts........most of his research has been for D2 and D3/4 stuff

he is probably across defender stuff as well.

from memory you should be able to pick up blank hubs and have them drilled to the correct PCD........although faily certain they are off the shelf and if you want matching nuts than you need to press out the existing studs and press in new ones

Even though they may be drilled Land Rover PCD, they aren't 16mm studs.

this thread might be a good start.......

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-v...d-pattern.html

My father has done half a dozen or so camper trailer hub conversions for old customers, most have been D2 and D3 though.

A trailer manufacturer (dad and I both buy that stuff from sales trailers in Mortdale) should be able to order you either blanks or defender drilled hubs from Alko. However most of the time they come with small studs, dad sets them up in the mill and drills them out for the LR studs.

Then as most are alloys he turns a spacer/spigot plate (D2/3/4/RRS wheels don't fit over the bearing) to both space the wheels out and locate them centrally, as on the car, if you are running steelos that is all unnecessary.

Finally, changing wheels is expensive, very expensive, especially for LR patterns, those prices don't seem unrealistic, it cost me about $100 to put D2 hubs on the trailer I built, they are unbraked though, so the money is in hubs and studs, it also has steel wheels on it so there's no spigot.

Cheers
Will

Originally Posted by MR LR

My father has done half a dozen or so camper trailer hub conversions for old customers, most have been D2 and D3 though.

A trailer manufacturer (dad and I both buy that stuff from sales trailers in Mortdale) should be able to order you either blanks or defender drilled hubs from Alko. However most of the time they come with small studs, dad sets them up in the mill and drills them out for the LR studs.

Then as most are alloys he turns a spacer/spigot plate (D2/3/4/RRS wheels don't fit over the bearing) to both space the wheels out and locate them centrally, as on the car, if you are running steelos that is all unnecessary.

Finally, changing wheels is expensive, very expensive, especially for LR patterns, those prices don't seem unrealistic, it cost me about $100 to put D2 hubs on the trailer I built, they are unbraked though, so the money is in hubs and studs, it also has steel wheels on it so there's no spigot.

Cheers
Will

Don't get caught, spacers are illegal in Australia. You are also changing the offset of the wheels and loading on the bearings.

This mob is in Perth, but they have a good online catalogue, there's three Landy pattern hubs on this page Trailer parts as well as blank hubs etc, with prices.
It looks like the C0120 hub might actually come with the proper 16mm studs for $75.50 each.

Cheers, Murray

G.day all
When I was working at Sunshine trailers vic i made a camper trailer.
i got alko elec drums with LR defender studs made up at Melbourne Trailers 12 months ago. $140.00 for both drums and jap bearing Trade price.
I am using dexter backing plates,
2006 Defender had a brake controller already fitted when i bought her.

Sent from my HTC One X using AULRO mobile app