I think the braces look silly and you might aswell get rid of them, strenght can be added in other areas.
Why do you not continue the main tubes to completely overlap the chassis boxes/mounts?
Cheers
Will
G'day All,
I've just designed a tube type bull bar for Defender and I'm happy with how it's turned out, but I'd like some feedback on the top outrigger design.
I value the feedback I get from the forum, so please let me know what you think. If you vote in the above poll, you can choose either one, or if you like both options you can check both.
This is the one I've just made. Instead of a tube I've used a laser cut gusset as a brace. The reason I did this is mainly so it looks different to other tube bars. A lot of them look similar in design.
Or, do you prefer the tube outrigger brace like on other bars you've seen.
This is one that I had to modify the tube on because it fouled on the indicator surround on a Limited edition Defender (SVX type front lights)
So which one do you prefer ? It would be preferable to stick to the one design to make production simpler, but having said that, if a customer preferred one or the other, it might just mean having to wait for one to be made.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers, Murray
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
I think the braces look silly and you might aswell get rid of them, strenght can be added in other areas.
Why do you not continue the main tubes to completely overlap the chassis boxes/mounts?
Cheers
Will
Hi Murray
I like the idea of the gussets,but can't help thinking that a twin gusset for strength appropriate on this key connection, with the plates mounted one on the front and one on the back of the main bar - sandwiching the two tubes.
That way when the bar is impacted the front plates are in tension and rear in compression - this decoupling in widely spaced plates adds a lot the strength over a single.
These gussets would help in increasing the strength of the loop to main bar welds especially under fast acting dynamic loads impose which tend to lead to brittle fractures.
The tops of the gussets should be capped (another section of steel) for the most part along their length to a impacts on the upper tube can be transmitted at least to a limited extent in torsion to the main tube and take the load off the cantilever tube.
For myself I would leave out the material saving holes strength is critical with multiple force systems though this section.Except keep you've got three the 'mouse hole" in the corner - this raises weld stresses.
That's just my opinion and because I think bull bars should be for strength - keeping 'roos out of the radiator before anything else.
Will this fit a Tomas PTO winch if so I'd be interested.
This will add to the cost but why not make it a good as can be there's plenty of nearly the sames out there
Clive
The main tubes stop where they are because if they went further in they would be in the same space as a winch.
To run them in further they would have to come forward which would decrease the approach angle at the wheels.
I've got the main tubes tucked in close to the body, but not too close.
Also, the ends have a radius to follow the line of the body.
Cheers, Murray
[IMG][/IMG]
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
Nice design there Murray, the only criticism I have is that the winch tray does not pick up the plates on both sides of the chassis rails (unless you're planning on adding material?), you could do this without any ill effect on approach angle, however as I've mentioned before I like to over-build things.
Otherwise it looks awesome, the curved corners give it a very 'finished' look.
Regarding the bracing, I think a straight tube going up to the A-bar, (so get rid of the bend) mirroring the one beneath would look the best and give the best trade off between strength and looks.
Cheers
Will
Voted. Overall, I like it!
Got my vote, wish you had finished this before I bought my rover craft.
is this made so you can weld in different plate fitments depending on which winch you have?
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
I personally dont like the holes in the supports but what I do like is your trying to create something different from every other tube looking bar out there
I have an idea!
I will send it to you
Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......
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