Just read through this thread, awesome work Mitch!
Must get around to sorting out dual batteries in mine sometime soon, will pinch lots of your ideas
I have one comment however..... you had soda with 15yr old scotch
What's wrong with you man!
Dan
'14 Def 110
'75 Lightweight
'98 300Tdi Disco (gone)
'80 2Dr Rangie Classic (gone)
Very good thread, i'll keep following this
Hmmmm....Nup. Neat or nothing. I use Scotch to seer the steaks on the Barby. It's Irish for me.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
Duly noted.
Thanks to everyone following along at home, I do realize I post some trivial junk sometimes, and do go on a bit of a tech rant about some of the things I have done/in the process of doing, but I'm sure it's all in the spirit of it all.
The 'vibe' I like to call it.
Today, I pulled the centre dash panel off to suss out the space behind the side panels on the puma dash. I asked the question here, and took the advice to remove the centre panel and have a look-see.
For anyone interested, there is a usable (relatively flat) space of 100mm x 200mm on each side panel.
Behind the side panel, there is enough room to stick a fist in there (yes, that's a technical unit of measure, just like an imperial ass-tonne), so for most reasonable space requirements for switchgear / electrical gadgets, there should be no issues making them fit in that space with the area behind this panel.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Thanks for saving me the trouble Mitch.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
The melting mudflap on the 90 is not a new issue.
There have been some interesting fixes by others, and I thought I'd have a crack at my own solution to the problem.
It all starts with a new set of mudflaps- the issue is with the LHS flap where the exhaust on the 90 protrudes through the opening.
I Started by making a tracing of the mud flap, and locating the cutout. From here a template was made. The large radius was made with a 7" grinding wheel, as I didn't have anything else that was suitable. I tried to maintain a 20mm width on the bottom portion.
This was transferred to some thin 1.6ish stainless steel, and plasma cut. With plasma, you can stack cut material, which helps to get some consistency between work pieces. I cut 2 copies of the template, then clamped together and used a grinding disk to get to the final dimensions.
The mud flap is approx 10mm thick. I plan to fill the cavity with some heat resistant material (sort of like a fire blanket), to prevent the heat from affecting the rubber underneath.
I cut 2 strips of the same stainless material at approx 12mm width to make the top section. These were bent to the final profile in 2 pieces (I was constrained to the length of the scrap stainless I used, so had to wled together).
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-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
...After a number of hours practicing my DC lift-arc stainless TIG welding skillz (or lack thereof), I came up with this:
My TIG is rather appallilng, and admittedly there was a lot of grinding and re-welding pin holes where I was walking the line between burning thru the thin material, and getting bugger all penetration.
Machine settings were:
DC TIG, 35A, No ramp up, 3 seconds post flow.
Argon gas, 10LPM flow.
2% thoriated (red tip) tungsten, balled tip.
I'm going to work out a way to mount it, and see what happens. It's fairly rigid in torsion, so should help prevent the mud flap from going into the exhaust flow in it's own right, but whether this is sufficient to withstand wind at 110km/h is yet to be seen.
I've still got some tweaking of the design, to make it fit properly in the opening of the fap. I did experience some warpage of the material despite my efforts not to put too much heat in one section.
Finish will most likely be some kind of sturdy black. Sadly my welding efforts mean that it wouldn't look 100% if polished up due to all the poor fit-up and porosity
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
Mitch,
I am really enjoying your thread. I don't normally frequent this part of the forum much and generally feel well out of my depth, especially on all things electrical, so it's not to steal ideas for the D4. Although the 3M Super 33 tape, HVAC foil tape and electric conduit cable bends are going to feature somewhere, somehow. Anyway, I just like your approach, attention to detail and commitment to the scientific method (e.g. extreme ambient conditions testing of foil matt).
But what is the best element so far ..... obviously the colour-coded shovel.
All the best and keep it up,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
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