Thread: Def swerves on left braking - HELP ME PLEASE

Originally Posted by bismillah

Actually a couple of months before I became aware of this braking problem, happened the at 90-100 km / h (especially when I leave the throttle at that speed) that the steering wheel started to shake. The whole thing was rod ends.

Loose / worn rod end will cause those shakes, as well as bushes that have gone soft or worn in the suspension.

If the problem remains after any replacements, pay special attention to things such as, the toe in/out adjustment to the tie rod, make sure this has been set correctly for your model and the caster angle is back to it's original specification.
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[quote=90@;2192097]

Originally Posted by bismillah

"Toe and wheels (i've tried also other 4 wheels) are ok"

Just wondering, what are your measurements for the Toe in or Toe out?
A lot of Defenders get set up wrong.....

Regards,
Mike.

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

pay special attention to things such as, the toe in/out adjustment to the tie rod, make sure this has been set correctly for your model and the caster angle is back to it's original specification.
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This is the result
http://diafino.altervista.org/image.jpeg

[quote=n plus one;2192109]

Originally Posted by 90@

I wonder if part of the issue is road camber sensitivity - is the issue apparent in a non-cambered surface?

No, the problem has nothing to do with the road shape: going at low speed like in citty the car is apparently normal, but increasing the speed (more or less 90 km / h) it starts to show a deviation that needs to be corrected by turning the steering wheel to the right. The problem is very evident compared to the shape of the road. The problem always occurs, sometimes higher and sometimes lower. Braking from a speed of 110km / h is actually to be afraid.

The problem always occurs on the motorway at any lane ( in the right lane sloping to the right and in the left sloping to the left, both uphill and downhill (much more of course)

[quote=wrinklearthur;2192128]

Originally Posted by n plus one

Is your Defender Left hand Drive?

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No, drive on the right

[quote=wrinklearthur;2192128]

Originally Posted by n plus one

Ref; What Coil Springs are these??

90 4 seat station wagon (2550 Kg).
Front - Passenger side REB500220 Red/green/orange
Front - Driver's side REB500200 Red/green/white
Rear - Passenger side RKB500310 White/green/purple
Rear - Driver's side RKB500270 White/green/pink

90 4 seat station wagon (2400 Kg).
Front - Driver's side REB500200 Red/green/white
Front - Passenger side REB500220 Red/green/orange
Rear - Driver's side RKB500290 Red/green/green
Rear - Passenger side RKB500280 Red/green/red

110 heavy duty and all 130 (3500Kg).
Front - Driver's side NRC 9448 Blue/red
Front - Passenger side NRC 9449 Yellow/white
Rear - Both sides RKB101111 Purple/brown

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Ref; PART

Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Further to the above.

Could your Land Rover springs been set up for RHD instead of LHD road conditions?

Another line of reasoning is, if one of your springs been incorrectly tempered and left soft at manufacture, it could then settled since your Land Rover has been built.

I had a look at your photo's and they are the colour's I referred to, but some of them are a bit hard for me to see.

You would need to give those colours a wipe with a wet cloth to enhance their colour, but there is no need to post more photo's, just write down the colour on each spring with the springs position and post that info here.
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NRC9446 BLUE-GREEN 90 FRONT DRIVER
NRC9447 BLUE-YELLOW 90 FRONT PASSENGER
NRC9462 GREEN-YELL-RED 90 REAR DRIVER HD
NRC9463 GREEN-YELL-WHIT 90 REAR PASSENGER HD

it seems to be ok

Sorry, I only have a very basic understanding of written Italian, although looking at your list I did spot this anomaly.



Get your ( Convergenza Finale, 1.2 mm ) back to -1.00 mm or 0.0 mm toe-out at least. 1.2 mm toe-in is a bit too far the other way and will lead to excessive tyre wear.

Your spring colours do look to be in their correct positions for your model Defender.

Have you found a suitable flat area to test the braking response, unless you are happy with a location you have selected already?

Temporarily try your test again with the anti-sway bar disconnected, that should show after pulling up if one of the springs is out of specification, as the car should remain settled on that corner.
If the car straightens back to it's correct height, the springs would be working correctly and you would then need to go back to investigating the brake components for faults.
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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Temporarily try your test again with the anti-sway bar disconnected, that should show after pulling up if one of the springs is out of specification, as the car should remain settled on that corner.
If the car straightens back to it's correct height, the springs would be working correctly and you would then need to go back to investigating the brake components for faults.
.

I just installed the anti-sway bar when I did the photos to the springs: they have been removed from new and now I have reinstalled when I changed the shock absorbers for maximum stability under heavy braking. So my car has done 150k miles without anti-roll bars, now I have it on but the problem is the same.

Dear distant friends who are giving me a big help. I wanted to ask you a couple of things, more...

Last night I tried to take a look at all values ​​and errors present in the ABS ECU; looking at the various parameters have met the speed at which the four wheels rotate: standing still are all pretty much to 0 while they apparently normaly increase with the speed. One of these values​​, however, is not coherent: the rotation speed of the left rear wheel marks 397km / h from stand still and increases in an apparently correct way with speed increase. However, this means that the ECU receives the signal that the left rear wheel always turns 397 km/h most of the other

Could it be the faulty sensor? it might be cause the problem?

After this discovery I went to a testing center where I asked to valutate the braking efficency on each wheel on rollers but thay have not been able to do it as one wheel was made ​​to turn the traction control intervened. They have proposed me to remove the fuse of the ABS / ETC but I'm gone. Is this thing possible? which fuse would I eventually take off?

Thanks