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Thread: Defender Traxide lights upgrade help

  1. #1
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    Defender Traxide lights upgrade help

    Hi, I am about to upgrade my lights and fit drivers using a traxide upgrade kit. I am looking for ideas on where people may have fitted the dual relays in a 2012 or newer Puma. Photos would be great if you have them. Thanks

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    AndyG's Avatar
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    About to do the same, RH side of radiator shroud was one suggestion.
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  3. #3
    n plus one Guest
    I went RHS radiator support tower ( behind the headlight) in my 09. Tight fit but no clutter. Others often use the top of the RHS inner guard?
    Last edited by n plus one; 4th September 2014 at 09:06 PM. Reason: Typos

  4. #4
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    Just completed the same job myself. This link shows the trail has been blazed before. Space for the relays under the blank of the RHS fender.

    Fitting the Traxide Lighting Upgrade and Driving Light Kit to a 2007+

    The relays are on the wrong side of the car according to the instructions, but space is at a premium under the hood of a current model Puma.

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    AndyG's Avatar
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    Keep the ideas coming, 1 will be doing this in a week,

    By putting bolts through the aluminium body, are we not creating a future corrosion problem? And if we use Duralac to prevent galvanic corrosion, does it then make a bad earth ?
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  6. #6
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    Hi,
    Just finished mine an hour or so ago.

    Spent more time finding spots and making brackets that didn't work than wiring I think.

    Here is how I ended up going.

    Remove LH headlamp (instructions in owner's manual) (mark the indicator & park wires, I found one extra in there - no idea what it is for)
    Feel up inside the cavity with your right hand, identify the horn and the 13mm nut at the back of it.
    With a small 13mm socket (1/4" drive will fit) remove the horn.

    I spent a bit of time mucking about cutting a piece of Aluminium sheet. This ended up 100mm wide and long enough to fit the horn and the two relays mounted back to back below it.

    The horn mounting hole is about 60mm from the inside (Left as you look at it) panel.

    Put the hole 60mm from the left and about 10 mm down from the top.

    Put the two relays back to back as close to the horn as practical (allowing clearance for wiring) and check it will mount OK AND that the headlamp clears the relays.

    I put the headlamp relay on the front, and the spot relay (not wired in yet - I have yet to buy spots) at the back.

    Wire it up as per instructions AND put a nut/bolt on the Al mounting piece for an earth. You will need to earth this, the bracket I used had zero connection to earth, so I ran a heavy (same as the heavy red power feed wires) back to two 10mm nuts I put on the little bolt sticking up from a pump thingy that the serpentine belt runs. The earth runs out the back of the headlamp space, past a couple of hoses and it is one of the first available engine mounting spots available.

    I was some what peeved when first connecting up and testing ...........................ZILCH.

    Earthing the relay mounting point fixed the problem.

    cheers
    Last edited by austastar; 5th September 2014 at 12:25 PM. Reason: correction- the two earthing nuts were 10 not 13mm

  7. #7
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    Is the spot relay wired back to high beam or does it need another switch?
    Using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Hi,
    Spots need high beam and switch in the on position.
    Thus, dip headlights and spots turn off 'till high beam is selected, even though spot switch is on.
    Cheers

  9. #9
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    Hi tfc, the control for the spot ( driving light ) relay is wired back to the high beam wire, via a switch and works as austastar posted.

    This switch is a mandatory requirement in all states.

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