Thread: Thinking of buying a dinitrol kit and applying

I used waxoil in the UK which was brilliant, also use to be in the RAF and found out that PX32 was actually waxoil, everything I use to own use to get a blast! Did like the smell of the stuff, it it still for sale over there?

Just an update - as I had not received a reply, I decided to call Stork AWD.

Well, Jason told me that his boss has sent a request to Dinol in Germany to find out the price for the Dinitrol rustproofing kits. They're still waiting on a reply and he has said that he'll update me once they receive the costings.

He did mention that they do expect it be a bit pricey. I didn't talk to him about costings but the price in the UK for a large kit is UKP106 and with Aus dollar about double UKP, that's about $212). Add in freight & markup and I believe a reasonable price for the kit to be $400-500. Though, I'm hoping it's cheaper but I would be happy to pay that, knowing I'm purchasing a reputable product with everything I need to do the job.

I have also contacted Zegato (Chris) on the Defender2 forum and he recommends a large kit for the D90 and an extra large for the D110. The other bit of news, which is unfortunate, is that he won't be doing the updated defender corrosion prevention guide any time soon. The good news is that when he does get time to do it, it will be in video and it won't be a half-ar$ed job. He said it will be comprehensive!

Originally Posted by DieselDan

Been thinking about this recently too and wondering what the best method of applying any 'goo' would be.
Back in the UK, I used a waxoyl kit on my Lightweight and it came with a big hand pump type thing that was screwed onto the waxoyl tin and used to pressurise it. The application lance was built into the hand pump thingy and had a long extension probe on it for getting into the chassis rails.
Now I've been wondering if a similar thing can be made using a hand compressor garden sprayers, the sort of thing used for weedkiller? Get a 4l tin of the tectyl stuff (I've also been trying to find out if septone rust shield is similar), thin it down and then spray away. Certainly cheaper and easier than using a heap of spray cans, just not sure if the pipe work and seals in the sprayer would be up to it.

Sent from my AT1S0 using AULRO mobile app

Thought I'd follow up on this...
I went to Bunnings and bought a $10 garden sprayer with a long extension nozzle and 4litre can of Septone Rust Proof.
It was a relatively warm day (well, for June in Melbourne....) and I'd kept the Septone stuff in the house to keep it warm, so it didn't need much in the way of thinning. I poured it into the sprayer, pumped it up with the handle to pressurise it and then sprayed away!
I'd given the underside of the Defender a damn good clean a few days before and left it to dry. I thought I'd test it on an easily accessible spot first, so I chose the rear wheel arch as an easy to get to spot and also easy to clean up if it all goes wrong...!

So the result..... meh. The sprayer doesn't 'mist' the wax enough for it to be easily or properly applied, it tends to come out in a thin, watery arc rather than a mist. So, for exterior applications, like the wheelarches or exterior of the chassis rails, it doesn't really work well, just creates a mess.
However for inside the chassis rails, the big arc the spray creates seems to work quite well and the fact that the angle of the nozzle can be altered, coupled with the long extension piece meant that I seemed to get good coverage a decent way inside the rails. I still intend to get some spray cans with the long nozzle just to make sure I finish the job off properly!

I've got some of the septone stuff left, so I'll give the disco chassis rails a squirt. It was fun experiment and a sort-of decent means to an end, but probably not worth the bother if anyone's thinking about doing it....

A while ago I stumbled on some advice about Tectyl 506 and found some in Bunnings. I haven't used it yet but it may be a bit an option. You can get in spray cans and in solution.

Originally Posted by AndyG

Downey Street Rustproofing — After Beach wash and Electronic Rustproof Professionals

Downey st in Bne are the only people I have found doing Tectyl professionally for the public, the applier is also a defender buff.

I will use them to clean after a beach frolic

These guys did my D2 back in 2011.

An average job I'd say they did. Masses of overspray all over my recently clay-barred bonnet....not happy about that.

The product they used back then was not Tectyl though. Just a black waxy product that I never really knew the name of. My Dad picked the vehicle up after the service as it happens and he chatted with the bloke that did it and he mentioned to him what it was. It started with "P" IIRC (something like 'peckam' or similar?).

Whatever it was it's stood up to the fortnightly beach driving that my Disco has done on Fraser for the past 5 years very well. As you'd expect the underside of wheel arches and rear spring hangers are bare from the blasting effects of the sand. But otherwise it's still in good nick.

The inside of my chassis rails may have already had some rust before they applied their treatment I really don't know. But the rails now have bad rust in several places and the vehicle is unroadworthy.

Hi guys,
for application ideas, you might find this youtube video useful.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDl6CDjW0KI[/ame]

this is using the full dinitrol kit and has a lot of useful tips.

put me down as interested in a group buy.

This may have ground to a halt, but I'm interested if it ends up going anywhere.

Originally Posted by bell1975

These guys did my D2 back in 2011.
Whatever it was it's stood up to the fortnightly beach driving that my Disco has done on Fraser for the past 5 years very well.
As you'd expect the underside of wheel arches and rear spring hangers are bare from the blasting effects of the sand. But otherwise it's still in good nick.
The inside of my chassis rails may have already had some rust before they applied their treatment I really don't know. But the rails now have bad rust in several places and the vehicle is unroadworthy.

Hi - sorry I'm a bit confused by this.
It's done very well for five years... but you have rust so bad it's unroadworthy. Am I missing something.